PCV Write-up for 1999+ Volvo 5-cylinder 31325709

[Tone944]

Thanks everyone, great thread!

I think there's only one issue left unanswered...

What is actually inside the oil trap / separator box, has anyone ever cut one open? I'm guessing it just some sort of coalescer.

Can it be cleaned? I'm thinking soak in petrol, shake lots, flush out, blow out, maybe use some brake cleaner or something in it...

I have 2 XC70's that need this done, one with a blown intake cam seal, the other with a blown rear main crank seal. Both are cars that aren't worth putting a lot of money into. I also have an XC90 that I want to do as preventative maintenance before there are any seal problems.

[erikv11]

The oil trap is just a hollow box inside, with a short baffle. Several people have cut them open and posted pics on here. This one is pretty informative:

The oil trap is the one part that is it totally fine to clean and re-use, or to buy a cheap aftermarket version of. It's just a hollow box, and the cheapies do not have a history of failing.

[Tone944]

Wow! There really is nothing to it. Should be pretty easy to flush out.

I think I'll just get some rubber stoppers then fill with solvent, soak and shake, shake, shake.

Thanks for the reply erikv11

[abscate]

Just make sure the metal part of the lowest coupling hose for the oil return touches the block and not the other way...

(Running joke here as Volvo seems to conflict internally on this)

[abscate]

Great write-ups here - thanks so much for the understandable description!

I made a simple blow test - based on some reading here - without touching any PCV System hose:
1. Inserted a suitable diameter plastic tube into the oil level check tube (oil stick removed)
2. Blew air through the tube: I got massive resistance and the air came back from the tube (behaved like a party balloon) => the system is airtight (or clogged)
3. Removed the oil filler cap and blew in air again: no resistance realised, pretty easily the air came out through the oil filler hole.

My estimation: no clog neither in the oil trap nor in the oil pan.

Any comment to be appreciated!

Zoli, I missed your post from this Spring

The dipstick, or oil level check tube, test you did doesn't tell you much as this tube is below the oil surface, so you just bubble oil.

The best test is to idle the car, remove the oil filler cap up top, and put a disposable glove tight over the fill hole and see if contracts ( good) or expands (bad)

A further test is to bring the engine rpm up to 1500-2000 with an assistant and see if it still stays deflated. Do this carefully as a good PCV will suck a glove into the engine

[erikv11]

Just make sure the metal part of the lowest coupling hose for the oil return touches the block and not the other way...

(Running joke here as Volvo seems to conflict internally on this)

Ummmm what's the joke? I missed that one. And which is the non-joke way to install?

[abscate]

We have reports of seeing both ways in Volvo lit, as well as finding it installed both ways in unmolested cars.

I was no help as my 99 came with a soft hose on both ends with hose clamps.

The replacement part comes as a soft hose with a metal sleeve with one end metal exposed, the other end rubber - so there is the usual kerfuffle over which is the right way..



Here is the picture from upthread, but, I have seen pictures in VIDA reversed.

Screen Shot 2017-09-06 at 11.24.02 AM.png (2.06 MiB) Viewed 2469 times

[Tone944]

Ok, so I've serviced the system on a 2002 XC70...

Found the hose to the banjo bolt on the intake manifold clogged. Everything else tested OK with air. That plastic hose is certainly fragile, it ended up in a few pieces, so I simply replaced with vacuum hose.

Also, major oil leak turned out to be from the intake cam, just as I've seen others post about. I ended up going to my local bearing supplier and they had a suitable seal. The old seal had wear that could be measured with verniers! It was also dislodged from the housing, but even when put back in, it still leaked like a sieve.

One thing I can't believe is that the intake cam pulley has no keyway or spline, and the elongated holes give at least 2 belt teeth of "adjustment" on the timing. I've never seen anything like that on timing gear before.

Something that has happened since this job is that I'm now getting a "Exhaust Cam sensor high" code and check engine light. Even though I was super careful not to get the timing out, I'm wondering if I've managed to somehow get the timing wrong. Would that effect the sensor code? (ie. an out of range position being detected) Also now getting some ever so slight pinging on acceleration, but no knock sensor stuff coming up in Vida. The timing instruction drawings in VIDA are pretty ordinary, so, I'm now going in search of timing threads, so I can check with the timing marks...

[abscate]

You have to set the preload on the later cams as the cams position is varied as a performance improver...abbreviated VAriable Valve Timing or CVVT. Probably the cams aren't quite in the right place, giving you those codes

[j-dawg]

One thing I can't believe is that the intake cam pulley has no keyway or spline, and the elongated holes give at least 2 belt teeth of "adjustment" on the timing. I've never seen anything like that on timing gear before.

Completely infuriating. I'm sure they had their reasons, but I hate it. This should be a much easier job than it is.