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99 S70 n/a Jumped timing belt, now replacing head

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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nyurch
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Year and Model: '98 S70GLT '02V70X/C
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Re: 99 S70 n/a Jumped timing belt, now replacing head

Post by nyurch »

Lee what are your thoughts about using the same head gasket? And intake gasket? It took me literally 2 hours to get the head off today, would have taken an hour but rose damn 40 valve cover bolts killed me hahaha thanks everyone, you have all been great

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Post by Ozark Lee »

nyurch wrote:Lee what are your thoughts about using the same head gasket? And intake gasket? It took me literally 2 hours to get the head off today, would have taken an hour but rose damn 40 valve cover bolts killed me hahaha thanks everyone, you have all been great


I would change it since it has been torqued down but, as I said before, I am overly cautious. If I were to go to all the time and effort and then have it not seal there would be an actual haze over my neighborhood from all of the profanity. Since I know this about myself, and to protect the tender young ears up and down the street, I bite hard and open my wallet.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
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1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
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clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

Greetings. This thread is going to help me a lot. Since I've never order ordered a head before " What comes with a head from Erie? " Your head looks brand new. I thought it would look "recycled". Do I reuse my cams or do they come along ? How long did it take you guys for removal and install ? Did you preset your timing marks on install since the belt jumped? Seeking wisdom and knowledge before I start turning wrenches and spending money.

nyurch
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Year and Model: '98 S70GLT '02V70X/C
Location: Eastern PA

Post by nyurch »

Okay.. from erie it came reconditioned, they sent everything from the head to the cams to the valve cover, all bolts included except the head bolts, and it was like powder coated. Remove and install took 3 freaking weeks start to finish (Take in consideration my work week is wed-sun and did minimal work these days) : 3/30- timing belt jumped, got it towed, 3/31 found out we needed new head, 4/1 called erie and started to dissemble 4/4 received head and started to work. 4/7 got the head on and realized it was vvt- wrong freaking head! 4/8 took the wrong head off and started to wait for the new one.. note: erie was great about it, refunded $55 for new head gasket and sent the right head (the head was $425 and after the mistake was $370.. got new head 4/16 and fully installed everything 4/18 with a very tapping start.. let her run for 30 minutes and now I have a fresh engine. No cel or anything. I would say total cost was around $850 with the head, head gasket set, timing belt set, oil, antifreeze, extra anaerobic sealant, head bolts. And honestly it's not hard, I'm a girl. It was pulling the head bolts to 130 degrees that killed me... first it was the creaking terrified of snapping a bolt and the physical force involved especially on the 12th.

And with timing marks I set the crank and kept checking it and aligned everything with the crank.

And 270 mi on the head I really punched it and what a perfect ride. I had it for sale for 2k for about an hour before it was sold. I have her for another week and I don't want to sell but a neighbor has a pristine 02 xc70 for sale for 3500 with 131k, I know p2 problems but it shifts like a dream and will fit my dogs at the same time.

It honestly was fun doing this. I mean, alot of stress, and problems we shouldn't have encountered but I would definately do it again. Put the gasket for the water pipe on the back of the head before reinstalling, lol that was a bitch, but other than that it was the time that was the worst. The 40 something cylinder head bolts for example! I want to say it took me about 40 hours with half of them being from installing the wrong head first haha

clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

Thanks for the info.

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

nyurch wrote:Yep, I confirmed it, wrong head so erie is sending one tomorrow and refunded 55 dollars for new head bolts. The engine was never fired, so I should be good with the gaskets? Thanks!
Replace the bolts and gasket. As Lee expressed, it just is not worth the risk.
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rspi
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Post by rspi »

clifford06 wrote:Seeking wisdom and knowledge before I start turning wrenches and spending money.
My first go at a head replacement took me 3 days, about 18 comfortable hours:
Day 1: pulled the head in 4-1/2 hours.
Day 2: cleaned the block, cam cover and other parts in 3 hours.
Day 3: installed the head and other parts in 6 hours.

In general, I use to be a slow worker, especially when doing a job for the first few times. I was going to try to do my last cylinder head job in 1 day but as a caregiver I had to many distractions.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

stephansvolvo
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Post by stephansvolvo »

rspi wrote:
clifford06 wrote:Seeking wisdom and knowledge before I start turning wrenches and spending money.
My first go at a head replacement took me 3 days, about 18 comfortable hours:
Day 1: pulled the head in 4-1/2 hours.
Day 2: cleaned the block, cam cover and other parts in 3 hours.
Day 3: installed the head and other parts in 6 hours.

In general, I use to be a slow worker, especially when doing a job for the first few times. I was going to try to do my last cylinder head job in 1 day but as a caregiver I had to many distractions.
Should I use RTV sealant with the gaskets at the front and rear coolant connections on the head. In your video it's just hanging there with no bolts to hold it up. And because I dropped my labeled bin of bolts do you happen to hav a picture of the bolts for the rear coolant line going into the head?
Stephan
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clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

Greetings. My question leans toward RSPI. In your video you mention that you like to use the cams to help in head removal. Do you remove the head bolts, then replace cam cover to use cam sprockets as handles to lean head back to break it loose? Your steps for this procedure is much appreciated.

clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

Greetings. It's been a minute since my last post. Busted my thumb in a door, waiting for nail to fall off. Watched RSPI' s video again and saw the answer to my question. If no rain or tornadoes, I hope to pull off head this weekend. Updates to follow.

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