'03 s60 needs good engine shop

[erikv11]

For what it’s worth I measured a whole set of removed head bolts and was unable to measure length differences from a Volvo one, within resolution of =-50 microns. I doubt they are torqued past elastic deformation, so reuse isn’t crazy

I just removed a valve cover on an RN and retorwued head bolts to address an oil seep, so far successfully

An indy mechanic who had done "at least 50" P80 head jobs told me he will re-use the head bolts once no problem, and never had one break, but second time around he always gets new ones.

[vtl]

Febi bolt is $2.69 at FCP. I was told they are as good as Volvo, by a guy who does Volvo engines for life in Eastern Europe (where US sold Volvos end their life, even junked ones).

[erikv11]

Holy cow yes, I have always bought the Febi bolts, or whatever aftermarket FCP was selling. I go Volvo with the head gasket, spark plug seals etc but can't imagine anyone here is shelling out for the Volvo head bolts. Caveat is that I will only use an aftermarket head bolt once.

[abscate]

Bulten makes hardware for Volvo, it would be interesting to track back who makes them for Febi!

[SantaFe75]

good job, any problems encountered ?

Sorry so late.

I always have problems . Time, was my biggest issue. When I measured cam gaps I found that they were well worn.

don't they sell valve shims for that?

The only fix I've found, is to replace the lifter. I'm not sure how a shim would work on these, but I am going to look into it. I'm sure that would be a less expensive route to take.

[erikv11]

Bulten makes hardware for Volvo, it would be interesting to track back who makes them for Febi!

MTC makes the suspension hardware e.g.. Where did you get Bulten from? Or is MTC just a distributor?

[abscate]

Bulten makes hardware for Volvo, it would be interesting to track back who makes them for Febi!

MTC makes the suspension hardware e.g.. Where did you get Bulten from? Or is MTC just a distributor?

Trademarks on recently purchased Volvo OEM hardware

[stephansvolvo]

If you have removed the timing belt you will have to juggle the cams and crank back to the marks individually. Don’t force anything. Don’t freak if the touch, you won’t damage them if you keep pressure light.

We got the head back and we are just now starting to get everything back together. We ran into some personal stuff that had slowed us down. We are also now waiting on a few parts we decided to replace while we have this thing opened.

I was never able to fully losen the big crank bolt. Do need to get that lose before I start putting things back together? I know I need to align everything.

Also, what is the best way to clean out the system of the old coolant and oil that mixed?

[erikv11]

I never loosen the crank bolt for head work, just leave it on.

I've never had to clean out goop so not sure the best approach when the oil pan os still on. Probably rinse well with a solvent, scrub any nooks and crannies you can get to, rinse again, drain the pan well, rinse with cheap oil, drain the pan well, refill. Change the oil again soon after startup. You can rotate the crank while you are cleaning just be sure to get it back on the mark.

[vtl]

I was never able to fully losen the big crank bolt. Do need to get that lose before I start putting things back together? I know I need to align everything.

Also, what is the best way to clean out the system of the old coolant and oil that mixed?

With the pulley on it will be hard to tension T-belt properly, you will probably miss a tooth or two. Any impact wrench will take care of the bolt. Spray it liberally with PB Blaster, or WD-40, or whatever and leave overnight. You may need a torque multiplier wrench + counterhold, but for the price you can get an electric torque wrench. I have one rated for 8.5 Amps and it was enough to take care of those nuts on 5 Volvo engines.