I tried using 4mm and 5/32 sockets and I stripped the two hard-to-get-to bolt heads. So I suggest getting the E5 socket AND being extra careful that it's seated fully on the bolt heads. I managed to get the one by the firewall off with an E6 socket, but the other one would not budge. Instead of trying to dremel the head off (I think you'd need a flexible shaft, which I don't have), I took a "handy saw" blade (with duck tape wrapped around the end as a handle) and cut through the bolt (and sleeve) near the top of the module. When I got 3/4 of the way through the bolt, it somehow loosened up and I was able to remove it with the E5 socket. Go figure.

I reinstalled the module using just the other three bolts. Probably not optimal, but it seems to work.
I used the screw-the-module-to-a-board trick. When I pried, parts of the lid came loose in the right way, and other parts separated from the lip. I ended up thinning that lip with a hacksaw blade on all four sides so that it separated all the way around. Doing that also just gave room for the pry tool to get deeper into the grooves which gave better purchase.
I found that I needed a pretty hot soldering iron to get the two big power pins hot enough. What worked for me is one of those butane-fueled soldering irons. Love those things.
Also, the two power wires from the plug at the module to the pump had disintegrating insulation, so much so that the wires were mostly bare. I sandwiched them in a piece of duck tape to keep them from touching each other or the metal edge of the ABS gizmo they run near. Ghetto! I'd use shrink tubing but I didn't want to cut the wires.







