How to install trunk lifts.
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Replace Trunk Struts Tutorial
Re: How to install trunk lifts.
I think I may have mis-read your question... Do you mean that small circlip on the bent arm of the trunk?
Thanks to everyone that helped me out. I purchased struts from ebay ( no they are not Stabilus ....got a slight feeling I may have to replace the current one's with Stabilus ). They don't sound very smooth but, they work for now !!! 
1997 Volvo 850 sedan owner here - Thanks guys for giving the courage to tackle the lifts. The quickest way I've found to remove the old oem, was to remove the little clip on the trunk side to start with. Couldn't get enough leverage to pop off that front one behind the seat edge. I found a piece of aluminum square tubing, (1"x 24") 1/16" thick. After you remove the clip on trunk side, slide tube almost to the hook on the front side. Gently push down on the tubing on the back side, using the sheet metal as a pivot point and the front will pop off. Try this out, if it's too easy ....... Send all donations to me, to buy gas.
I have a 242DL sedan and have 2 new trunk lifters. I have no idea how to remove and install the top pins? Any help appreciated.
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- Trunk lift / Shock. 240DL 1984
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skreckman
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After reading through this topic it seems that there are couple tips or tricks that really help make this a 10 minute job. Based on my experience I'll outline the process that made it easy for me.
First off, don't cheap out, get the good struts made by Stabilus. Make sure that you get the pair, not just one, for the trunk lid that you have (spoiler or no spoiler). Take a minute to examine the strut before you install it. Note that the ball end has a clip that must be pulled out a bit to get the end on and off the ball. Do NOT pull the clip all the way off. See how this clip works by taking a small screwdriver and inserting it into the side of the clip parallel with the long axis. Understanding how this clip works will help greatly with the removal and installation.
Secondly, this is not a hard job for one person to do but a second set of hands can help some operations.
Tools
1. Small flat blade screwdriver
2. Large, long flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, 16" (0.5m) is a good size
3. Something to prop the lid open while you're working on it (block of wood, PVC pipe, etc)
4. Flashlight so you can see what you're doing
Removal
1. Remove the rear seat bolster to give you access to the clip ends of the struts. To remove the bolster pull the top towards you until the spring clip releases then lift it up to take it out. Pull as hard as you want, it's not a cheap plastic fastener but a real metal bar and clip.
2. Prop the trunk lid open about 3/4 of the way up. This will allow you a bit easier access with a small screwdriver to the spring clip. While holding the clip out with the small screwdriver, pry the cap end off the ball by placing the large screwdriver between the strut body and the trunk lid hinge. This is where another set of hands can come in handy. The end should pop off easily if you have the clip pulled out sufficiently. I used a foot-long nail bar and it worked quite well.
3. Look back in the trunk-side hole and you'll see that the other end of the strut just clips onto a horizontal pin. To remove the clip end either push up on that end of the strut from the access hole behind the bolster that you removed - or- Come in from the trunk side with your long screwdriver placing the tip of the screwdriver under the clip and leverage it up using the bottom of the access hole as a pivot. It should actually pop off quite easily. You may notice some oil around the clip end which is typical of a failed strut.
Installation
1. Prop open the trunk lid all the way open. You'll need to do this as the struts will be in full extension and there's no easy way to compress them.
2. Insert the strut through the access hole in the trunk and leave it laying there. From the bolster-side access hole, pull the clip end of the strut down onto the pin by hand. It should slide on very easily, no tools required.
3. Take your small screwdriver, pull out the clip on the ball end, swing it up into place and you should be able to pop it on by hand. Repeat with the other side. You may need to lift or lower the trunk lid slightly to get the second strut aligned with the ball.
4. Replace the bolsters by inserting the metal loop on the bottom of the bolster into its socket and push the top loop back into its socket.
That's it, no scraped knuckles, no sweat, and no tools needed other than a couple screwdrivers. Again, just take the time up front to understand how the clip and ball mechanism works and you'll save yourself a lot of swearing and aggravation.
Cheers
First off, don't cheap out, get the good struts made by Stabilus. Make sure that you get the pair, not just one, for the trunk lid that you have (spoiler or no spoiler). Take a minute to examine the strut before you install it. Note that the ball end has a clip that must be pulled out a bit to get the end on and off the ball. Do NOT pull the clip all the way off. See how this clip works by taking a small screwdriver and inserting it into the side of the clip parallel with the long axis. Understanding how this clip works will help greatly with the removal and installation.
Secondly, this is not a hard job for one person to do but a second set of hands can help some operations.
Tools
1. Small flat blade screwdriver
2. Large, long flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, 16" (0.5m) is a good size
3. Something to prop the lid open while you're working on it (block of wood, PVC pipe, etc)
4. Flashlight so you can see what you're doing
Removal
1. Remove the rear seat bolster to give you access to the clip ends of the struts. To remove the bolster pull the top towards you until the spring clip releases then lift it up to take it out. Pull as hard as you want, it's not a cheap plastic fastener but a real metal bar and clip.
2. Prop the trunk lid open about 3/4 of the way up. This will allow you a bit easier access with a small screwdriver to the spring clip. While holding the clip out with the small screwdriver, pry the cap end off the ball by placing the large screwdriver between the strut body and the trunk lid hinge. This is where another set of hands can come in handy. The end should pop off easily if you have the clip pulled out sufficiently. I used a foot-long nail bar and it worked quite well.
3. Look back in the trunk-side hole and you'll see that the other end of the strut just clips onto a horizontal pin. To remove the clip end either push up on that end of the strut from the access hole behind the bolster that you removed - or- Come in from the trunk side with your long screwdriver placing the tip of the screwdriver under the clip and leverage it up using the bottom of the access hole as a pivot. It should actually pop off quite easily. You may notice some oil around the clip end which is typical of a failed strut.
Installation
1. Prop open the trunk lid all the way open. You'll need to do this as the struts will be in full extension and there's no easy way to compress them.
2. Insert the strut through the access hole in the trunk and leave it laying there. From the bolster-side access hole, pull the clip end of the strut down onto the pin by hand. It should slide on very easily, no tools required.
3. Take your small screwdriver, pull out the clip on the ball end, swing it up into place and you should be able to pop it on by hand. Repeat with the other side. You may need to lift or lower the trunk lid slightly to get the second strut aligned with the ball.
4. Replace the bolsters by inserting the metal loop on the bottom of the bolster into its socket and push the top loop back into its socket.
That's it, no scraped knuckles, no sweat, and no tools needed other than a couple screwdrivers. Again, just take the time up front to understand how the clip and ball mechanism works and you'll save yourself a lot of swearing and aggravation.
Cheers
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rspi
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Contact rspi..
When installing the struts you shouldn't need to pull the clips out, they should open themselves with just a little pressure while going on. Also, I've never removed a seat bolster, just reached in the trunk with it propped open with a stick or something.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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