I am sure that a lot of folks know this, but..if you do not, you can either back probe the bulbs using a continuity meter with tone or remove the bulb and check it. No tone = bad bulb. If you have no meter use a 9v or similar battery, with wires attached, one to each of the positive and negative terminals, to check the bulbs in question and place one wire on each side of the bulb holder......no light= bad bulbTIP: there are a LOT of lights in the instrument cluster. Carefully write down which areas are dead before you take everything apart. You want to avoid having to repeat the removal because you missed one (I did).
Below is a pic of back probing

And a pic of the back of the cluster

The process of back probing is most likely a little quicker than writing it all down and some areas may be "dead" by design, like the two blank inserts, which have no bulbs. Of course all this knowledge is usually obtained once the cluster is out anyway!
BTW: Meters are really inexpensive now and if you are going to do some "wrenching" it is a good addition to the "stable" of tools.






