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P80 Step by Step - Replacing the starter motor 1998 S70 8251551

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » 1996 850 non-turbo Starter Replacement Tutorial
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abscate
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Re: Step by Step - Replacing the starter motor 1998 S70

Post by abscate »

Its not too bad, but think about a throttle body cleaning and a PCV renew to make it a worthwhile dive in.

If you want to got the used route, Ive got one from my 1999 part out in PARTS classifieds...(shameless plug)
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Post by luckykolo »

Anyone installed this starter without left hand bracket? My original on my S70 98 has a bracket. I am looking on FCP Euro Bosh and it does not have a bracket: SKU: VOL-8251551. Any recommendation for aftermarket starters like Duralast from Autozone etc? Thanks
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Post by abscate »

The bracket 9442201 was removed by Volvo on later models, so you can install your new starter without either the bracket or worries.

Link to some discussion here

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=88093&p=493947#p493947

Old thread revival. Incredible first time DIY detail kicked off this thread, by user Tina
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Post by matthew1 »

Wow, blast from the past. It’s fun to read these old threads.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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Post by matthew1 »

28,600 views! 😮😁
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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Post by luckykolo »

I've just pulled my starter and the pin (gap pin) is stuck on the transmission housing.What is the solution? It looks pretty solid. Should I find a starter without the pin? The replacement on FCP web site has a pin mounted on the starter. Is this pin removable? Can you remove it from the starter? Every replacement starter for my S70 98 I've seen has a pin mounted on the starter. Also I watched Robert on YouTube having the same issue. Check out 4:23 minute.

Unfortunately he does not show the solution.
Also I was trying to remove the automatic transmission dipstick tube in order to have more access to the lower starter bolt. I was able to turn the dipstick pipe around but I was not able to remove it. I unbolted dipstick's bracket (from harness and PNP). Stuck solid. Is there a secret to it? I was planning to replace the seal for the dipstick tube, but damn pipe does not budge. It moved upward just tiny bit. I thought that it's similar to the engine oil dipstick pipe... I will post some pictures tomorrow.
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Post by luckykolo »

Here is the picture of dowel pin stuck in transmission housing. Robert DIY suggested to pull the pin with vice grips. Just wondering: from the transmission or the new starter? The pin on the transmission looks pretty solid. All replacement starters seem to come with pin mounted on them.
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Post by luckykolo »

So just in case, it would help anyone in the future. I ended up buying a used starter, and I have taken it apart, cleaned, and installed it. The used starter was in working condition, but inside I found tons of dirt mixed with oil. Here are some details of the process. They are not listed in the order of disassembly and reassembly. You can figure out the actual order by watching the youtube videos linked below.
The guiding pin got stuck in the transmission housing upon removal. I removed the pin from the new "used" starter with Channellock. Cleaned the stuck pin on the transmission housing with sandpaper.

I cleaned the starter parts with diesel, including planetary gears (except plastic parts, brushes, commutator, solenoid, and rubber). Afterward, I cleaned them all with electric contact cleaner spray.

Applied small amounts of grease etc.:
CRC Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease on top of the bushing,
Red Super Tech Multi-Duty Complex Hi-Temp Grease on planetary gears,
CRC Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease on the helix,
Red Super Tech Multi-Duty Complex Hi-Temp Grease on pinion and bearing.
Anti Seize synthetic grease on the rubber seals and around the aluminum base meeting the sleeve with magnets (I don't know the proper name lol),
Anti Seize synthetic grease on the copper braided wire going from terminal M to the brushes. No grease on brushes connection!!!

Silicon spray on plastic actuating arm and metal "pusher" part on the solenoid, plastic under the planetary bearings and solenoid metal plunger along with silicon on inner walls of the solenoid.

Red thread lock on solenoid bolts heads.
Blue thread lock on mounting bolts (bracket and transmission housing)

Silver Anti Seize grease on the guiding pin (dowel pin stuck on the transmission housing in my case).

Cleaned a commutator with Aluminum Oxide sandpaper 1000 grit using drill chuck (make sure that chuck is rotating in the correct direction), fiberglass pen, and soft stone, again with a fiberglass scratch pen. I cleaned mica with the plastic straw, sprayed it with electric parts degreaser.
Cleaned the edges of brushes from burrs with a small file
Run the motor without the load in order to create the protective film on the commutator (I connected the starter to the battery before reinstalling it on the car) Short bursts. Otherwise, it overheats.


Starter bolts by Chilton book: blue thread lock and 25 ft/lbs
Here are some useful links:





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Post by abscate »

Most of the replacements don’t come with the bracket posts, and Volvo wrote a service bulletin ca.2002 deleting the rear bracket

The parts bazaar brands are cheap but not great. Usual balance of cash and quality.

Second Best option, if you can stand the down time, is to have your original rebuilt at an auto electric shop fir $100

Best option is to have so many Volvo’s your rebuilt is waiting on the shelf for you.
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