1999 v70T5M56 starter R/R 8251551
- abscate
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1999 v70T5M56 starter R/R 8251551
Here is the procedure fir swapping the starter on the T5, good luck with this.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- abscate
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.and here is the harsh reality. On the T5 the charge air pipe badly blocks access to the starter, most of this work is blind.
Negative battery cable removed and wrapped.
Remove the soft pipe on the induction to get access to the starter bolts.
Crack the 13 mm M8 nut on the battery cable with a small 1/4 drive socket for access
Now remove the two M8 14mm flange bolts holding in the starter
Starter removal
Remove the connectors for the IAT and MAP on the hard pipe, then remove the sensors. These puppies are not cheap so you don’t want to break them. A touch of silicone on the oring on the MAP makes it easier to install. The IAT sensor is fragile so keep it safe.
Remove the battery cable nut by hand, it a bit tight so work deliberately. You have to install the solenoid push in connector by hand, blind. It sits vertical just below the battery 12V nut
I clip the two connector for the crank sensor and cam sensor by easing them to the left, then tucking them out of the path.
Push the starter to the right, the twist the solenoid up to clear the hard induction pipe , then bring the starter out to the left.
Work the starter up and out to the left. It’s tight.
You can reinstall the L shaped terminal cover by gently but firmly pulling the induction hard pipe front and slipping it in place. That’s also tight.
Self rant. You can make this job much easier for yourself if you can remove the hard pipe from the electronic throttle body. If you plan ahead next time it’s off, leave the clamp head (7mm hex) pointing to the left side of the car so you can reach it blind under the intake manifold, then this job, and access to a lot more stuff , becomes simple.
Negative battery cable removed and wrapped.
Remove the soft pipe on the induction to get access to the starter bolts.
Crack the 13 mm M8 nut on the battery cable with a small 1/4 drive socket for access
Now remove the two M8 14mm flange bolts holding in the starter
Starter removal
Remove the connectors for the IAT and MAP on the hard pipe, then remove the sensors. These puppies are not cheap so you don’t want to break them. A touch of silicone on the oring on the MAP makes it easier to install. The IAT sensor is fragile so keep it safe.
Remove the battery cable nut by hand, it a bit tight so work deliberately. You have to install the solenoid push in connector by hand, blind. It sits vertical just below the battery 12V nut
I clip the two connector for the crank sensor and cam sensor by easing them to the left, then tucking them out of the path.
Push the starter to the right, the twist the solenoid up to clear the hard induction pipe , then bring the starter out to the left.
Work the starter up and out to the left. It’s tight.
You can reinstall the L shaped terminal cover by gently but firmly pulling the induction hard pipe front and slipping it in place. That’s also tight.
Self rant. You can make this job much easier for yourself if you can remove the hard pipe from the electronic throttle body. If you plan ahead next time it’s off, leave the clamp head (7mm hex) pointing to the left side of the car so you can reach it blind under the intake manifold, then this job, and access to a lot more stuff , becomes simple.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- volvolugnut
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ALWAYS try to install hose clamps where they are easier to access the next time.abscate wrote: ↑01 Dec 2021, 19:52
Self rant. You can make this job much easier for yourself if you can remove the hard pipe from the electronic throttle body. If you plan ahead next time it’s off, leave the clamp head (7mm hex) pointing to the left side of the car so you can reach it blind under the intake manifold, then this job, and access to a lot more stuff , becomes simple.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- abscate
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- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
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Paradoxically, I think the best place for the clamp is with the hex in the rear, facing to the left of the car
With a 7 mm hex on a long extension, you can tighten it pretty easily.
Here’s the real world “view” of the starter on the 1999 T5 - see how those sensors and plugs block starter removal
So pretty, why cant I buy cars looking like this?
With a 7 mm hex on a long extension, you can tighten it pretty easily.
Here’s the real world “view” of the starter on the 1999 T5 - see how those sensors and plugs block starter removal
So pretty, why cant I buy cars looking like this?
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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