'98 V70 XC - Two problems,

Post by **MoVolvos** » 24 Jan 2014, 00:54

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* Blue Smoke in the morning - Change Oil to 5W-40 - Your plugs are good because once blow by is done at startup everything is good. Rings and oil.
http://www.fcpeuro.com/page/what-is-the ... for-my-car

* Synthetic - 5W-40

* Dino - Proven to take care many a issues with my cars over a dozen years including the Blue Puff on my 98 S70 T5.
Moderate Weather - 15W-40
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/sho ... co_pg8.htm
Cold Weather - 5W-40
http://www.swepcolube.com/sites/default ... j11980.pdf

mindshadow wrote:
If I can get the hard start dealt with

Starting issue - Have you checked timing.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=61280

Blessings,

BKM
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mindshadow · Post by **mindshadow** » 30 Jan 2014, 16:34

Well, that almost went well. The part that connects from the car to the ECT broke. It was corroded to the ECT connector. Anybody got a part number or suggestion on how to fix it?

mindshadow · Post by **mindshadow** » 31 Jan 2014, 18:03

Ok, got everything patched up now. Still getting a hard start, but at least my car is running at the right temp!

So, back to the hard start issue. I guess we need to address the possibility that it's the PCV at this point?

Post by **MoVolvos** » 31 Jan 2014, 23:01

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mindshadow wrote:
In the afternoon when I leave work I usually have to give it some gas to get it cranked.

Cranked = Engine running?

mindshadow wrote:
So, back to the hard start issue.

Can you describe hard start. Engine cranks slowly? Engine cranks normally but won't ignite? Engines cranks and ignites intermittently?

Blessings,

BKM
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mindshadow · Post by **mindshadow** » 01 Feb 2014, 07:25

Yeah, cranked = engine started. Regional language difference (like pop vs soda)?

The engine is turning over normally, but takes about 5-10 seconds to ignite. I usually push the gas pedal all the way down to keep it more in the 5 second range, otherwise it takes a while. Once it starts it's rough for a few seconds, and it smells a tad rich like something is burning off gas or something, then it's fine. No problems driving, only throwing the two normal EVAP codes (p0455 and p0410) like it has for years.

mindshadow · Post by **mindshadow** » 01 Feb 2014, 12:00

I think the vacuum hoses in front of the car may be wrong. Not entirely sure it's related to the car being hard to start, but I'm sure it doesn't help.

: hoses.jpg (299.4 KiB) Viewed 878 times

I'm pretty sure that blue should be plugging in to the vacuum tree. Green I guess should come from the vacuum tree and plug in where blue is. Red goes under the fuel rail.

So if I move green to blue and plug blue into the vacuum tree, or leave green in place and move blue to the vacuum tree, that leaves me with an open port. Where should it go? All the vacuum diagrams I see only list two ports (one going under the fuel rail, one going to the vacuum tree).

mindshadow · Post by **mindshadow** » 01 Feb 2014, 13:15

Ok, I think I figured it out. Blue one goes to some thingy towards the radiator, green goes to CBV. The CBV hose was just disconnected under my engine somewhere. Just now got the grease washed off of me. About to go take the wagon out for a ride to see how it does.

mindshadow · Post by **mindshadow** » 02 Feb 2014, 17:16

Well, that didn't do it. Still a pain to start. The p0410 code is gone now though, so that's a plus.

So, I noticed yesterday when getting my daughter out of the car that there is a bit of a fuel smell after the car is shut off. Could that be related to the problem, or just coincidence? Everything else seems happy (still want to put 5w40 oil in and get rid of the iridium plugs), it's just that starting it up isn't working out so well. It idles rough for about 5-10 seconds after it starts, too, if that's any use.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 03 Feb 2014, 00:39

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Had these since Mar 2013
NGK Iridium IX - 6418 - BKR6EIX

The copper that were in there were excellent but degraded it seemed after one year. The Iridium was an improvement but could of just been because it was newer. The starting was not bad but was a little rough idling especially when cold. With all the things I tried to improve the car's smoother running it turned out to be that the timing was off. Never would have guess or known it but due to a leaky water pump it was discovered. Now it fires up quicker/snappier and idles and drive off smooth immediately.

Going with the 5W-40 was also improve the overall smoothness of the car.

Blessings,

BKM
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mindshadow · Post by **mindshadow** » 03 Feb 2014, 07:10

Well, I've had the timing belt job done twice in the past 3 years or so. Once intentionally, second time because I developed a leak high up that dripped oil onto the timing belt.

Right now my target is the fuel pressure regulator. Issue is that I don't own a fuel pressure gauge, and they are a tad expensive. I wanted to test the Schrader valve this morning, but was in a bit of a hurry. Hopefully my FPR is the one located on the passenger side of the engine compartment, and not the one on top of the fuel tank.

On the upside, if anyone wants to know anything about V70XC vacuum line routing, I'm your man now.

Ever since re-routing, I don't see the giant blue bloom of smoke when I start off. I guess that's a good sign.

On the downside, I think one of my rear nivomat strut thingies is on its way out. Too much bounce from that side. Those things are damned expensive.

EDIT: Would this fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight work? I can afford $20.