98 V70 T5 Replacing the Coolant Hoses in Pics

[songzunhuang]

Just a word of warning for forum dwellers.

I ordered the factory clip kit from IPDUSA (P#112518 for $32). It turns out that they did not fit my car! I guess my frustration was magnified by the hours getting the hoses off only to find that I couldn't put them back on because of the kit being the wrong size.



Luckily for me, the original clips were still in good shape and I just re-used them.
So it appears that the junction may have been redesigned at some point in time. I was still using the unit that came with my car (bought new in 1998) so I didn't change anything.

If that junction ever leaks (it was bone dry before all this), I'll just do what any others have done and delete that junction all together, using stock hoses and the original metal fittings at the firewall.

UPDATE: I have been informed that my clip didn't fit because I have to replace all the parts (o-rings, plastic spacer, etc) along with the clip. I tried to test fit the new clip before I removed all the old stuff. So, my observation may be incorrect. I returned my clip kit so I can't verify this.

[Ben850]

They are not actually wrong.
You have to use the combination of spacers and O-rings that come in the kit.

It is the newer combination which is an upgrade from the original.
Trust me on this one. look at my earlier thread.

Edit:

Here.

Closer look.

It was a fun day, don't get me wrong.

Edit 2: New hoses in photos courtesy of "abscate".

Thank you Steve. Not forgotten.

[gmh]

It may not be obvious that there are o-rings and spacers from the old clip still inside the coupler that must be removed (see the white pages in the pics in the previous post) before the new clip will seat correctly. I used an allen wrench held tightly in a small vice grip to pry them out of the coupler.

[Ben850]

It may not be obvious that there are o-rings and spacers from the old clip still inside the coupler that must be removed (see the white pages in the pics in the previous post) before the new clip will seat correctly. I used an allen wrench held tightly in a small vice grip to pry them out of the coupler.

I had meant to point that out. I did have to pull some of the spacer pieces and O-rings with a picker tool.
What you see in the photos are the result of the original position on the tubes.
If you take notice to the large spacer located at the far inside, It makes the difference between the size of the original clip piece, and the larger yellow clip which includes the area of the spacer.

I might think of better ways, but I am sure it had to do with assembly line.
Final point being, the large spacer has been deleted from the equation leaving two less parts (if you are good) and hopefully a decent coupling.

Another cool addition.
The OEM Volvo package comes from here in ST. Claire MI.
I think it had to do with the Ford years?

[cn90]

Food for thoughts, just helped a friend replace the tstat in his 2007 Jeep Patriot.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a big fan of Jeep but at least their Jeep engineers got it right. The heater hose connection at the firewall is very simple:
- Two (2) metal pipes stick out.
- Then two (2) heater hoses run to the engine: simple hoses + clamps setup.
None of these Volvo knicks knacks non-sense (O-rings, Yellow Clips, Firewall Coupler blah blah blah)...


Here is the 2007 Jeep Patriot setup:

[erikv11]

+1, yay on Jeep for that. I guess the protrusions take a little space from the engine bay but so much more sensible!

[songzunhuang]

It may not be obvious that there are o-rings and spacers from the old clip still inside the coupler that must be removed (see the white pages in the pics in the previous post) before the new clip will seat correctly. I used an allen wrench held tightly in a small vice grip to pry them out of the coupler.

Ugh I didn't think to take everything out before a test fit. I guess that's my bad. I'll have to update my post. I just put all the old stuff back. I know. Bad.

Seriously, if it leaks I am just doing the coupler delete. I've driven around a bit after the repair and so far, no leaks at the old coupler.

[songzunhuang]

OK, for the sake of completeness I am posting the turbo coolant line pics that was the last (or so I thought) part of my coolant line updates.

This line is on the backside of the engine on the passenger side. I used the IPDUSA Silicon upgrade for this. It's $19 for the 2 turbo coolant hoses. This is the "easier" one to install. There's still a trick to it though. Here's the little section of line after it's all done.

TCooler.jpg (148.05 KiB) Viewed 1624 times

A comparison of the old and new line clearly shows that it's swollen with age.

TCooler1.jpg (188.99 KiB) Viewed 1624 times

So the trick is to put on Passenger side first. In the picture below the front of the car is toward the top of the picture. The way I stuck my camera in for the picture necessitated a rotation for clarity. So this would be the view if you were sitting in the passenger seat and could actually see the assembly.

So you need to loosen up the bolt holding the line to the heat shield. This will allow you to pull up the line bolted to the heat shield. After securing the right portion of the tube section, position the tube's opening to the raised line you just pulled up on the left. When you let go of the metal line, the hose will get forced onto the line as it returns back to it's original position. Easy. I can't see how you'd get this line on without this trick. The gap between the two hard lines is not big enough to slide the silicon tube back and forth.

TCooler2.jpg (178.83 KiB) Viewed 1624 times

Post mortem - while doing this line, I realized that my lower reservoir line is now the weak link. You can see it in the first picture to the left of the turbo cooler line I just replaced. It looks like there's been a bit of seepage and also the hose is a bit swollen. Sheesh, will it never end?

[cn90]

I'd replace:
- 2 hoses to and from the reservoir
- The reservoir
- The cap

[j-dawg]

While you're in there, check the condition of thermostat. It should be easy to check and replace if necessary. Not an expensive part, and they do stick when they get old.

Actually, it should be pretty easy to replace even when the system isn't drained, since it's at ta high point. But it's always easier to replace cooling bits when the system is empty.

I really hate coolant. Feeling it, smelling it, getting it everywhere, cleaning it up. The fewer times I have to drain coolant the better.