PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt Topic is solved

Post by **mrbrian200** » 12 Jul 2019, 07:33

chrism wrote: 12 Jul 2019, 06:18 Consider replacing that bolt with a torx head bolt. It might make it easier on the next person that has to loosen it.

You would probably need to identify the metallurgical composition of the existing bolt, and match that in the 'new' torx bolt to make sure heat expansion/contraction behaves the same as the original bolt. It's both threaded into relatively soft aluminum alloy and needs to maintain pressure across the IM to both keep the gasket sealed, the IM from warping, and not damage the threads in the head as things expand/contract with heat. I wouldn't risk it with some random bolt from the bins at the hardware store for this particular location.

Post by **chrism** » 12 Jul 2019, 10:46

Point well taken there. Of course we’re assuming that the person who is reassembling it will be able to torque that little bugger exactly right anyway? Mmmm, maybe.....

Post by **abscate** » 12 Jul 2019, 19:11

I think torque spec is really low, like 10 Nm.(check)

I don't think worrying about metallurgy is worth it if it snugs up the IM well.

Post by **cn90** » 12 Jul 2019, 19:44

A little trick...

- By the time:
- The UPPER bolts are removed.
- The 2 LOWER bolts are loosened a few turns (do NOT remove these as already mentioned).
- Pull the I.M. toward you a bit, then rotate the I.M. CCW a bit. This will loosen the last 10-mm bolt a bit, just enough so you won't strip the bolt. Then use the trick posted by oragex above: thin 1/4-inch 10mm socket with swivel extension.
- No need to remove thermostat etc.

Post by **GlennG2759** » 12 Jul 2019, 19:49

Sounds like a winner, I'll be giving that a go sometime this weekend

Post by **oragex** » 13 Jul 2019, 02:31

abscate wrote: 12 Jul 2019, 19:11 I think torque spec is really low, like 10 Nm.(check)

I don't think worrying about metallurgy is worth it if it snugs up the IM well.

19nm (15ft-lb) quite a low torque indeed, the genuine replacement gasket is made of some sort of paper

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 14 Jul 2019, 09:50

Intake Bolt 1, Crows foot Flare Wrench 0

How challenging each individual situation is seems to be driven by the orientation of the intake bolt head itself. Mine is in there with the longest dimension running completely vertical. Were it 60 degrees to the right or left (making the longest dimension completely horizontal) I'd probably have been successful with the regular crows foot. I tried the "take off the uppers and loosen the lowers and twist" approach, but it wasn't moving that much and how would I ever snug up the bolt when putting it back together.

Two more plans of action:
1. Have a friend weld a 1/4" drive 10mm socket in parallel with a long 1/4" extension with the socket in the correct orientation (when the socket and extension are side by side the long dimension of the socket is vertical)
2. Decide that while I'm in there I should replace the thermostat (comes as a housing) and then I'd have all the access I need. I *might* have a side leak on my radiator too...need to watch it for a bit.

Post by **cn90** » 14 Jul 2019, 10:30

You make it too complex.

Just cut a 10-mm socket (dremel or angle grinder) short and it will fit.
See the link I posted previously.

Post by **GlennG2759** » 14 Jul 2019, 10:43

I was just setting up for the pull and twist, think I'll try cn90' first, thanks.

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 14 Jul 2019, 10:54

cn90 wrote: 14 Jul 2019, 10:30 You make it too complex.

Just cut a 10-mm socket (dremel or angle grinder) short and it will fit.
See the link I posted previously.

Maybe I haven't yet cut it short enough. The original one on the left is 22.4mm, the right (the one I cut down) is 17.1mm. Head of the bolt is about 5mm long. Right now the socket depth is about 8mm so I have 3mm I can still take off.