DIY: Oil Pan/Sump O-Ring Replacement 2000 XC

[m_daily]

Just did this for my '99 V70 GLT. The process wasn't as painful as we thought it would be, but without some of the tips in this guide we would have been SOL. Thanks so much for this write-up. I felt like I needed to make an account just to thank ya!

[xHeart]

Fantastic write up. it appears that it is now my turn. Ellen's little beast, 2001 V70XC with over 302,000miles, has developed the oil warning light. Our son doesn't want to destroy the engine so its parked in the driveway. It's kinda cool in Connecticut this February. We'll have to move one of the summer cars out of storage and tackle this project this weekend. I never thought that this car would last this long. Alright Volvo!

How did it go?
Would like to make it a Spring project.
Ours is close to 156,000 miles.
Any pointers for 2001 V70XC?

[xtotalanarcoix]

This writeup looks great, I've got a road trip coming up in two days so tomorrow I am going to do this and replace the front axles to prep the ol workhorse. I'm slightly embarrassed to admit I've let the "clatter" go on for about two years at this point. Hahaha this is the beater of my volvo fleet but its refused to die so I figured it deserves some love. I'll let you know how it goes.

[xtotalanarcoix]

well it started off fine but other issues arose and made it a very long day under the Volvo. Axles went in no issue and then the oil pan came off with no big fuss. when I jacked up the motor I set a piece of 2" steel under the motor mount to keep it elevated, this is where the problems started.

The motor mount itself, specifically the rubber area, under the angle and load was in my of easily re installing the pan. Thank goodness I heeded your advice of a practice install or this would have been much much more frustrating. Also in the way was the hard fuel line that runs under the crank pulley and on the back side of that same motor mount. It was at this point I noticed that this line had been rubbing the pulley and was very worn into, like it had somehow rubbed against the pulley almost all the way through the line! At this point I jacked the motor up more, removed the motor mount all together and held the motor up with a 3.5" piece of steel. Then I tried to move the hardline out of my way, well that was all it took, gas started leaking out of the worn area. When i tested the leak by putting the key in the acc position it became a fuel fountain! It was already after closing time for the parts stores so replacing the full hardline was not an option at the very moment, and I was really looking forward to driving home at some point. I cut out the damaged area, and spliced in a section of high pressure rubber hose and routed it safely away from the axle and pulley. What an adventure. We will see if that holds up, I am going to improve on the bandaid tomorrow. Is this a common issue or something that was likely caused by someone one or something hitting the fuel line or something?

Anywho, the lifter noise was solved and she feels much happier in that department.

[xtotalanarcoix]

1,000+ mile road trip and she held up just fine!

[youropeen]

I just tackled this job over the weekend. Messy but pretty painless.

I used small ratchet straps to keep the power steering lines out of the way.

I read on another forum where someone did this job and they inserted the real long bolts in a way that they touched the flywheel. I thought how the heck could that happen? Sure enough I did the same thing. There's enough play when inserting the middle two bolts that they can skew and end up threading against the flywheel to the point that they even seem tight. Needless to say when I started the car it mad the most awful grinding sound which stopped when the bolt fell out. I sighed in relief that I didn't royally screw something up.

In the pic you can see how the middle two bolts have less material to use as a guide when inserting them making it possible thread them between the block/pan and the flywheel.

[DavidVolvo]

Hello
I am in the middle of this job.....just taking my time.....and have a question.

Does anyone know if you are supposed to apply sealant around the square tube that connects the sump to the PCV system. The square tube looks like it has a surface that mates between the block and the pan and could be designed to be airtight at that point. I don't know if that is critical so any help would be appreciated.

thanks for any input on this. My car is a 2004 XC70.

David

[erikv11]

Not sure if it is necessary but I don;t think it can hurt. I have always applied sealant to that surface, the three times I did this on P80 cars.

[Paul240480]

Thanks for the detailed 'how to' on this. I think my time is due! Did an oil and filter change today & found oil seeping out by the two bolts to the passenger side (driver side for you ) . I'd already drained so went ahead with the fill up...... Now the sump is properly full the leak is more apparent
I have the seals 'in stock' (must've had a premonition some-when)...... I've got Dirko (by Elring) sealant that others this side of the pond have used with success .
Just gotta brave it now.
Good thing is, no rush to get the car back on the road so won't be under pressure to get it finished.

[Free2drive!]

Hi, are you 100% sure there's no oil escaping higher up and running down?

Camshaft seals are know to wear out as well as the seal behind the distributor cap.

Is your PVC working or causing pressure in the crankcase?

Matt