1996 850 Wagon Oil Everywhere Underneath, Very Rough Idle

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 14 Dec 2015, 18:53

I have a spare old car so the kids are using that for now. No major rush on this.
I'm buying the $76 Hella pump that is actually a full kit.
The Volvo rebuild kit includes a Hella pump, so I'm going to assume that the
quality is good enough:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 9480152kit

Post by **dosbricks** » 14 Dec 2015, 19:27

Sounds like you are working your way through this.

Although I thought I had once read a DIY on it, I did a search for "fuel pump rebuild" and struck out. Maybe someone else has a link, or.... you may be teaching some of us.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 14 Dec 2015, 22:13

Robert does the full rebuild here, but I don't think that he mentions how
to release the fuel lines:

Here is another how to that just says to pry up the fuel line connectors:
https://volvo850wagon.wordpress.com/cat ... cp-groton/

Post by **scot850** » 14 Dec 2015, 23:18

Volvo has a special forked tool for these, but the connections look different to those on my fuel pumps. These look more like the connections I had on my fuel filter. Those just need to be pressed up at the bottom and it detached the pipes. The fuel filter on my car is more accessible for the pipe ends and I could use a 16 (?)mm open end wrench to slide under the end of the pipe union and press up on the end and it un-latched.

For the fuel tank ring, be careful as these get brittle with age. They are not too expensive, so worth replacing along with the seal ring.

FCP I believe sell a tool for undoing the fuel pump ring.

Neil.

Post by **xHeart** » 15 Dec 2015, 07:18

Meanwhile...

Post by **dosbricks** » 15 Dec 2015, 09:38

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 16 Dec 2015, 18:19

Ok, so the barbed end of the push on plastic fuel line connector broke off inside the hose.
I notice that there are no hose line clamps, were these things glued on or something, it is
high pressure so I'm wondering?
The plan is to thread a self tapping screw into the barb and pull it out with vice grips on
the head.
The ID of the hose is the same, I think, as the small piece of hose inside the fuel pump
canister. The pipe that it connects to measures .31" OD. I took the rubber hose to home
Depot and it fits just about perfectly onto a 5/16" ID brass barbed coupler. A touch of
petroleum jelly would probably help or just a lot of force.
I don't think I'll need this coupler but if the end connector that I bought on ebay turns out
to be bad I might have to use the brass coupler.

Anyway I need to get the old plastic barb out of the hose without damaging the hose. Any
tips?
I plan to push in the new connector and put a hose clamp on it just gently compressed
so that the hose is not distorted much.

Post by **cn90** » 16 Dec 2015, 20:11

I borrow this photo from another thread, but you can do this: brass coupler...

Another choice is to get a good fuel hose with I.D. = 8mm (Cohline is a good brand) and run it from the fuel pump all the way to the fuel filter. BTW, the fuel filter nipple is also 8mm. This is the easiest approach and probably the safest.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 16 Dec 2015, 21:02

I don't understand why he did that, did he have to cut off the part with the barb stuck in it?
I read on here that the fuel line is heat shrunk onto the barb on the original quick connect.

He also says that it was a failed attempt.

I wondered about the requirements for fuel line in high pressure systems like this. Found
this writeup:
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2014 ... d-not-use/
Seems the fuel line should be SAE rated 30R6 or 30R7.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 19 Dec 2015, 15:21

Hella rebuild kit came today, one tip is to note the distance from the bottom of
the plastic, to the bottom of the pickup filter. The pump in the rebuild kit can
be positioned at a large range of depths so you have to cut the new hose line so
that the pickup end matches the height of the old one.

The factory fuel line is odd, it is kind of like thick heat shrink on the inside with
a rubber layer on the outside. I had to cut off about 1/4" to get the barb out.
Took a lot of force and some petroleum jelly to get the 5/16" brass barb into the
factory line, then I ran a new piece of 1/4" high pressure line from the barb to
the pipe coming out of the fuel pump. 1/4" line fits perfectly just a bit snug,
clamped all the joints and it seems to work fine.

I used about 8" of new fuel line to provide a loop that avoids kinking the line.
It is hard to explain but it seemed to work better with a little extra line and
gradual bends. I should have taken a picture, but it is dark now. I don't
really suggest doing this but since everything is tight and all the way on the
barbs, and clamped, it should be fine.

1996 850 Wagon Oil Everywhere Underneath, Very Rough Idle

Re: 1996 850 Wagon Oil Everywhere Underneath, Very Rough Idle