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2013A XC90 - 150,000 Miles To-Do List Topic is solved

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America). P2 platform.
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xHeart
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Re: 2013A XC90 - 150,000 Miles To-Do List

Post by xHeart »

xHeart wrote: 27 Feb 2021, 07:19 Our experience says that the Volvo transmission torque rod, aka transmission mount, is to be replaced after 100,000 miles. The loud clunk at a gear shift from P to R (or P to D) before rolling away is this failed mount -- not audible when AT shifts during a drive.
This quiet weekend was an opportune time to revisit the sharp clunk. I decided to diagnose the clunk issue since it is present and felt during the drive while it downshifts, and engages back after a stop.

Starting with the assumption that the axle at the left wheel hub has the loudest sharp clunk, I wanted to observe and feel both axles, and their outer cv and inner cv.

I placed our XC90 on the Cn90-style ramps and choked the rear wheels for safety. And asked my helpful soulmate to start the engine and shift between P, R, N, D a dozen time while I observe, listen, and feel.

There is no clunk at N, but here is the order in which you SEE, and then HEAR. 1) gearshift is followed by axle turn, a then a clunk (see then hear); looking up and feet facing forward, it is louder on my left ear.

Next step, I chose to lightly grab the axles, right-hand holding passenger side and left holding drive axle. During the gearshifts, I slide my hand over the shaft to feel the turn, and the intensity of knock. Both axles turn a little and you feel the knock on both hands, however, an extreme and sharp knock is felt on your fingers when your left hand slide closer to the drive axle's outer CV at the hub.

Is there another way to verify?
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Unless someone says, I need to reboot axles and pack with fresh grease the Volvo replacement axles are a drag on pocketbook.

CV Axle (Left). AXLE SHAFT, EXCH 36001216 $510.98
CV Axle (Right). AXLE SHAFT, EXCH 36001221 $567.35
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

xHeart wrote: 12 Jul 2021, 10:27
This quiet weekend was an opportune time to revisit the sharp clunk. I decided to diagnose the clunk issue since it is present and felt during the drive while it downshifts, and engages back after a stop.

Starting with the assumption that the axle at the left wheel hub has the loudest sharp clunk, I wanted to observe and feel both axles, and their outer cv and inner cv.

I placed our XC90 on the Cn90-style ramps and choked the rear wheels for safety. And asked my helpful soulmate to start the engine and shift between P, R, N, D a dozen time while I observe, listen, and feel.

There is no clunk at N, but here is the order in which you SEE, and then HEAR. 1) gearshift is followed by axle turn, a then a clunk (see then hear); looking up and feet facing forward, it is louder on my left ear.

Next step, I chose to lightly grab the axles, right-hand holding passenger side and left holding drive axle. During the gearshifts, I slide my hand over the shaft to feel the turn, and the intensity of knock. Both axles turn a little and you feel the knock on both hands, however, an extreme and sharp knock is felt on your fingers when your left hand slide closer to the drive axle's outer CV at the hub.

Is there another way to verify?
I purchased a set of front axles from local Volvo during their summer sales event, and with another 10% I was able to keep it below $1,000 w/tax. So I've a pair of Volvo/GKN replacement front axle, and service items such as seal o'ring etc.

Past few days the clunk was loud as hell and resonating, so I decided to work on it this Labor Day weekend.

Both axles have completely cracked at the CV - a failure during cold weather was likely. Here is a pix:
MVS_XC90_1734.jpg
MVS_XC90_1734.jpg (124.76 KiB) Viewed 1243 times
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Here is axle's manufacturing label with date Feb 2012. It lasted 150,000 miles. The new OE fixes the loud clunk, gone, joyful once again!
MVS_XC90_1737.jpg
MVS_XC90_1737.jpg (105.4 KiB) Viewed 1236 times
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Alignment data after the front axles were replaced.
MVS_XC90_1745.jpg
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pgill  
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Post by pgill »

XHEART,

10 years and 150K Miles isn't bad.

I am a little surprised that the CV joint failed first.
Typically the boot gets torn and then the joint fails and I don't think that you found a torn boot.

It is reasonable to think that the performance of the grease may be affected by cold temperature use.
And I think that you live somewhere that it does get cold.
But does it get Sweden cold????

I've been to Sweden once for a day trip from Copenhagen and it was amazing how much colder it was in Sweden.

Having said all of that the truly impressive thing is that the Label looks brand new.

Good work finding root cause

Take care

Paul

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Post by xHeart »

pgill wrote: 13 Sep 2021, 10:37 XHEART,

10 years and 150K Miles isn't bad.

I am a little surprised that the CV joint failed first.
Typically the boot gets torn and then the joint fails and I don't think that you found a torn boot.

It is reasonable to think that the performance of the grease may be affected by cold temperature use.
And I think that you live somewhere that it does get cold.
I was suspecting torn boot also -- a tiny slit that may have let the grease escape gradually -- but none found. Could it be the cv housing empty of grease caused the material not stand extreme conditions, and cracked?

Very happy with the absence of clunk while shifting -- winter drive ready!
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Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

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Post by pgill »

XHEART,

I think you just wore out the old part.

I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you replace the Axles every 150,000 miles how many more time are you going to see an additional 150K once? twice? three times?

Good luck

Paul

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Post by xHeart »

xHeart wrote: 09 Nov 2020, 11:31
pgill wrote: 06 Nov 2020, 12:26 For my 2008 LR2 the Alternator Over Drive Pulley had failed prior to 150,000 miles.

When it failed it stopped the Alternator from Freewheeling but it didn't have any noticeable detrimental effect.

I replaced it as preventative maintenance but I didn't know that it had failed until I removed it.

I didn't replace the belt, I only replaced the Overdrive Pulley.

I think if you let it go long enough with the Freewheel function not working then you run the risk of the bolt that holds the pulley for the READ side backing out and the Alternator stops charging.

Let us know what you decide to do.

For my 2010 S80 the Alternator had been replaced some time before I bought it so I haven't changed that pulley or coupler (Maybe at 200,000 miles)

Take care

Paul
A recent experience with our 2001 V70XC intermittent voltage raised the awareness that the generator OAP pulley too has limited life - CEM:0C01. A refreshed alternator may be good for few more years.

The coupler and the alternator pulley are now added my to-dos –– Volvo Alternator Decoupler Hub Coupling Kit - INA 5350175100
Image
Our Iota DLS-55 works great when using VIDA/DiCE, and restoring battery charge. I'm suspecting the alternator is failing - a test to isolate the issue this weekend is coming.

Any thoughts on alternator replacement... would turning pulley by hand offer a clue?
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Post by pgill »

XHEART,

The alternator drive pulley attached to the read will only move if you rotate the crankshaft.

So unlike the other side that is very easy to test by moving the belt at the AC compressor, the Alternator side doesn't have a simple test like that.

With the alternator removed from the engine it is easy to test but that is a lot of labor and if you find out that it is bad and then you need to replace the pulley and maybe you should replace the whole alternator or at least rebuild it.

I've tried but I haven't come up with a simple test. If I think of one I will let you know.

Good Luck

Paul

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