1998 S70 T5 Low Compression after stall, will not retart

greasefingerss · Post by **greasefingerss** » 01 Feb 2007, 10:02

I have read where some people remove the Crank shaft pulley to help facilitate removal of the timing belt. I am not sure what exactly the issue is

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 01 Feb 2007, 17:45

I did talk to the seller and we were civil. He said that he would take no responsibility even though he did change the timing belt and waterpump right before I purchased the car. The only thing he gave up was a second set of keys with remote alarm switch. He did mentioned that he would redo the head for me for a discounted price of $1500.00 including all new timing kit and mobil 1 oil change.

That's another story. The head is removed at another repair shop.

The questions I have for this forum are:
1. Do a head off a 93 GLT fit a 98 S70 T5? ( I have access to a used one)

2. Is it a better route to get the head from the GLT and have a valve job done on it in place of having the original one repaired and new valves installed? I know it depends on the condition of the used GLT Head. My questions are based on if it would match up and if the used Head is in descent condition.
Please inform
Thanks in Avance
Tri

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 01 Feb 2007, 18:57

Dang (would like to use a curse word). I can't believe you were able to be civil with the seller. Anyway, it's a crap shoot...I don't think that the '93 head will bolt up but I could be wrong. If you're going to be in $1500 anyway, you might be better off just buying another engine....www.erievovo.com comes to mind as they warranty their engines...you could probably get out of this cheaper and with an engine with less miles on it. I do know that T5 engines have forged parts on them for better durability compared to other engines, but not sure which parts. Good luck and let us know how things turn out.

Post by **pfeener** » 01 Feb 2007, 19:22

To answer greasfingerss question. Sometimes the damper pulley is removed for better access to fit the belt around the crank pulley, but not the crank pulley itself.

Trilarry; recondition your existing head, don't use another head. I have my doubts about the test your mechanic used for testing if the valves were bent. I don't think they really are bent. I'm betting a valve job and possibly a head plane will take care of it

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 01 Feb 2007, 19:51

I hope they aren't bent. I did see the imprint of the valves on the pistons. It just barely nicked them. I'm wondering if I should take the head to someone else for a second opinion. I believe that might be an awkward action since they removed the head. (The current shop) I 'm also weighing in on the fact of taking it home with the head off now since I know what the problem is.
Tri

Post by **pfeener** » 02 Feb 2007, 05:00

The repair shop wouldn't be the ones to recon the head anyway unless that's what they do for a living. Typically it would be send out to a specialty shop.

If you didn't take it apart and you've never done it before, I think it would be difficult to re-assemble the head.

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 02 Feb 2007, 16:11

This particular shop does their own machine work. In the past I have removed a head from my 242 Turbo and sent it to a machine shop and replaced it.

You are right since I never removed this one I might be opening a new can of worms.

I did get a quote from a machine shop of 450.00 including all new valves if needed, less if not needed, plus $115.00 for a gasket set.

The Volvo shop did not want to hear that, they did not want to install a head someone else machined they also made known they wanted to make a profit on parts. So I will see what it comes out to.

I was qouted a $5100 dollar total rebuild without timing kit.

I quickly added "just give me a valve job".
Tri

Post by **pfeener** » 02 Feb 2007, 17:46

I doubt you need all new valves, but yours is a unique situation. Usually the timing belt breaks and the cams/valves stop where they are and the pistons keep going for a few more turns so only the valves that are left in the open position get whacked (AKA bent). In your case the cams and the crank kept going with the cams out of time...so who knows.

The $450 the other shop gave you is low for all new valves on a turbo. FCP gets $11/valve for intakes and $40/valve for exhausts, which equals $510 just for valves if you needed them all.

Is this shop that has your car a realy big shop. I can't imagine them having all the equipment to do all their own machine work. If they're not that big I wouldn't be surprised if they send it out to a trusted machine shop and mark it up to you.

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 02 Feb 2007, 19:19

I think you are right about them sending the heads out for repair. They have six stalls but I did not see any machinery equipment. The other machine shop I mentioned would do a complete valve job for $150.00 if valves are not needed. $30 dollars extra for shaving the bottom. and if valves are needed 10.00 each for intakes and 17.00 each for exhaust.

I hope I get out of there for under 1200.00. I know I will be charged for troubleshooting time and for removing the head.
Tri

Post by **pfeener** » 03 Feb 2007, 05:27

If you have exhaust valves installed make sure they use valves for a turbo. There's a difference. This link is for an 850, but it should be the same.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvoeng850engine.htm