1998 S70 T5 Low Compression after stall, will not retart

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 11 Jan 2007, 19:22

First Post here, My T5 Stalled and had codes for misfire 301-305, has 75 psi in all 5 cylinders. I get spark, fuel and timing marks are dead on. I was low 2 quarts of oil ( Daughter was using it while I was out of town) I checked all sensor replaced ECT and removed camshaft sensor before I discovered trhe low compression. The car hesitated and stalled at a red light. Has never started since, 3 weeks at this point. I turned it over tonight after bringing all level up and there was no disturbance of oil on the dipstick. Could it be the oil pump went out and will not allow oil to get to hydraulic lifters? I stumped and frustrated please any thoughts are welcome. Piston rings just do not go out on all cylinders at 1 time,
Thanks in advance
Trilarry

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 12 Jan 2007, 15:58

I concur with you and feel you may be on the right track. With the engine fill cap off, can you see oil being pumped up to the top of the engine? Although it won't start, if the pump is working, on your cranking attempts you should see this. You should have at least double that amount of compression.

Post by **pfeener** » 12 Jan 2007, 17:38

It's not related to your oil pressure. Even if you had no oil pressure and all the lifters were collapsed (which is impossible, but for the sake of argument, lets assume it's true) this condition would keep the valves closed, not open.

When you say you have low compression. Can you give us some numbers. Is it zero or is it just low, say around 100 PSI?

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 12 Jan 2007, 18:52

"First Post here, My T5 Stalled and had codes for misfire 301-305, has 75 psi in all 5 cylinders".

I talked to the Volvo Service mananger here in San Antonio and he mentioned that since the lifters are hydraulic, it will take alot of cranking to get them going. I think I will run down the battery and burn up the starter trying. Still no start. Today on the phone he recomended that I swap out the plugs and change the oil due to fuel contamination on plugs and in the oil from the constant cranking. The oil on the dip stick did smell funny. I will try his latest reccomendations in the AM. Thanks for te response Guys. There was a post similar t

o mine and I emailed the gent to find out what his remedy was, so far no news
Trilarry

Post by **pfeener** » 13 Jan 2007, 08:20

Sorry about missing the compression info in your first post. I think your chasing some of the wrong symptoms. The low compression is most likely caused by gas wash on the cylinder walls. If you put a couple tablespoons of oil in each cylinder and then take a compression reading it will most likely jump up to near normal. If your plugs are getting wet from the gas then your valves are opening and if the lifters were collapsed, you'd hear them knocking when you turned over the engine. I would change out the plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder and give it another try.

How did you check for spark. Did you pull a plug and lay it on the block while someone turned it over? Stick to the basics when you're troubleshooting something like this. Compression, fuel, and spark (at the right time) and it will start.

Post by **pfeener** » 13 Jan 2007, 08:22

I would change out the cap and rotor as well.

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 13 Jan 2007, 10:57

Thanks for the reply, I tried the oil in the cylinders a couple of day ago and my compression rose to 125. I had a good spark to all the plugs. I used a spark tester that plugs into your sparkplug wire boot and grounds on the negative battery terminal. Compression of 75 psi returned again.Wouldn't new plugs get fouled up pretty quick with the oil and fuel also? I think you are right about the fuel in the cylinders by the weird smell of the mobil 1 oil on the dipstick.

I will install the new plugs and try again.
Thanks again
Tri

Post by **pfeener** » 13 Jan 2007, 12:22

The low compression is not the cause of your problem, but rather a symptom of it. I would remove a plug and lay it on the block and have someone turn it over while you actually look at the plug. I'm a big fan of doing it the "dumb" way. Also Known As; I don't believe it until I actually see a good crisp spark every other time the piston comes up.

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 13 Jan 2007, 14:20

That was the way I checked them when I was stuck 50 miles from home. I got fire from the coil and then I laid a spark plug wire on the valve cover with a spark plug in it and recieved a nice strong spark. the only thing that surprised me was that it was not a fast repetitition like a v6 or v8 it was 1an a 2 an a 3 an a 4 type spark

Not like 1234. Is this clear or am I being confusing. Maybe this is normal for a 5 cylinder

I'm the same way I have to see something for myself to eliminate it. My wife was there turning over the engine why I checked for fire at the plugs. I had already eliminated fuel and spark.
The codes I first recieved before I accidentally erased them was 410 (air Pump) 116 (ECT sensor, I replaced) 130 (O2 sensor front) and 301 -305 for cylinders misfire.
any clues? I really do appreciate your patience and your responses.
Tri

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 13 Jan 2007, 17:47

That's it I quit! I just changed plugs, tried the oil in the cylinders andeven cleaned out the IAC. Tested my air pump and relay.IAC was closed when power was off, is this the correct position? The resitance on the IAC was correct. I will have to figure out how to get this thing towed to the dealer which is over 55 miles away unless someone has a couple of more ideas.
Tri