How to install trunk lifts.

[mecheng]

Who needs you guys LOL, I figured it out myself because I am smart I couldn't understand these instructions w/o pics so I just started trying things. It was definetly tricky not knowing how it is done.

I looked at the new strut to figure how the the ball joint is released, it is definetly not obvious. You have to pry up on the metal band, the first time I tried it came completly out which is not what you want. Its tricky to re-install, you have to clip it over the top of the head.

As for the other end, I just pushed up on the strut with a lot of force and it eventually came out. This is a stupid design. When installing the new strut I made the C-design opening facing up; that is the only way I could install it. I couldnt't push down on it to install it there is not enough room, so I pushed up and it is locked in. Not sure if the orientation is critical

For people who want pics, I can create something. BTW: I installed a Monroe strut which I got for $23 and its not made in China so I'm okay with it. I can't beleive the dealership wants $100, I could have got the Stabilis for $40 but I figured they often fail anyways so they are probably no better than Monroe.

[dosbricks]

Since the links in the beginning of this thread seem to be dead, and mecheng had to figure it out for himself in 2014, here is Robert's video.


I did this job on the S70 about 9-10 years ago, but at my advanced age I needed a refresher course.

I saw in page two of this thread where I posted back in 2005 a by-the-numbers for how to change the wagon liftgate struts--what a blast from the past!

[dosbricks]

Hey folks, I gleaned the best tips from this thread and they made this job an easy 20min. walk-in-the-park. So here they are.

1. Robert points out the little clip on the head of the end that snaps over the ball mount. A very small flat tip screwdriver will lift it and the strut will come right off just like in the video.

2. On the hook end, Robert's suggestion of using a small (no more than 4" long) combination wrench and a phillips screwdriver to lever the hook off it's bar mount works like a charm.

3. Lastly, on page three of this thread, B Osborn supplies this tip. I quote:
"I used a small piece of rope and looped it around the base of the bar clip. You will notice the shape of the clip allows a small rope to go around it and not get in the way. Slip the rope around the end, position the clip and grap the two ends of the rope with the pliers. use the edge of the opening for leverage and the clip will pop right in as you pull downward."
I used a flashlight and mirror to make sure a small nylon rope was positioned just behind the bar mount and over the back of the clip end--then pulled the rope taught, grabbed it with pliers, and levered the hook end right onto it's mount with one stroke and no sweat.

Numbers 2. and 3. are of course, done with the seat side bolsters removed.

Thanks all, for the collective knowledge of MVS. It can make many aggravating jobs into cake!

[gordgee]

I had to replace the trunk strut on my son's S70. No aftermarket ones immediately available locally, so I ended up just going to the local parts store and purchasing a generic 85lb 19 1/2" strut which of course did not have the needed hook end. I simply unscrewed the hook from the bad strut and as the threads were different, tried to tap the hook with a 1/4-28NF tap which of course will only go in far enough to start the threads. I then heated the threads of the new strut piston with a propane torch and quickly threaded the hook on.

Worked like a charm and the new strut only cost me $12 CDN ($9.30 USD)!