2001 V70 2.4T Oil pooling in the wells around ignition coils, Permatex 51813 cam sealer Topic is solved

[jonesg]

By support I meant they usually have a bracket or molded in brace to keep the central part of the pipe from banging around, it looks like it wasn't supported and stressed the collar.
On the diagram, part 4 and maybe 12 too.

[prwood]

By support I meant they usually have a bracket or molded in brace to keep the central part of the pipe from banging around, it looks like it wasn't supported and stressed the collar.
On the diagram, part 4 and maybe 12 too.

Part 4 and 12 are the MAP and IAT sensors.

[prwood]

I visited the parts department at Volvo Village Danvers. They do keep one of the intercooler pipes in stock and their price is $91.34. If there’s a shipping charge for the $75 online part, it might be worth it to go local.

As far as I can tell there is no part dedicated to supporting this pipe - it’s hose clamped to the throttle at one end and the intercooler at the other, and there are two electrical connectors and a vacuum hose attached to it.

My plan is to tightly wrap black silicone tape around the end of the pipe (starting below the hose-clamp area and winding around upwards) to create an exterior airtight layer that will cover up the cracked area. If this seems to solve the problems I’m seeing, then I’ll look at getting a replacement pipe.

[precopster]

The tape will get you out of trouble and I've used that method on a customer's car about a year ago. He had lower than normal metered air readings of around 9kg/hr at idle and when I plugged up the pipe in that same spot the reading shot up to around 12.5kg/hr.

I doubt it would only report one TPS sensor as being out of spec when there are 2 of them fitted to the ETM.
BTW P0121 is sensor 2 which is the sensor easiest to get to and only has 3 terminals. It's the sensor cap on the side that the loom from the terminal block heads away from.

My mum lived in Boston for a couple of years in the 90s. She enjoyed the snow lined streets during Winter.

This thread shows sensor 1 removal. Yours is sensor 2 which is easier.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=83655&p=456740#p456740

[abscate]

I'm sure your running will improve, prw, but remember, you aren't done looking for induction leaks



I do like to reward the local guys for having parts in stock for my 20 year old car. I know money is money, but that is a big part of the brand value of Volvo. You barely had to broach 128 to get there, too.

I stopped off after a SEMATECH appointment and got a cam shaft cover plug for my 99 at near internet pricing 10 minutes from home. Traffic here means you had to drive 55 instead of 65

It looks like there is a mounting bolt hole on the lower part of that charge pipe..does that attach to something?

[precopster]

Abscate that's a casting hole or production line pull point for the automation process. I have mine out at the moment on my 2001 T5. No mountings on these pipes other than the clamping points.

[prwood]

BTW P0121 is sensor 2 which is the sensor easiest to get to and only has 3 terminals. It's the sensor cap on the side that the loom from the terminal block heads

If I don’t have a replacement sensor, would there be any point in opening it? It looks like I’d have to remove and resolver wires just to get the end cap off...

[precopster]

Sensor 2 doesn't have motor wires sticking out of the endcap but you still need to remove 3 terminals and resolder them. I always use a plumber's paste flux to get good adhesion during resoldering.

Without another film or good complete end cap it's pretty pointless. I have a couple of good used sensor 2 films here. Could put one in an envelope for you. PM me if interested.

[prwood]

Alright, I’m feeling good about this fix... going to go install and see how it goes.

Silicone goodness

[precopster]

Without duct tape, zip ties and super glue most home mechanics would have little to do......