Definitely sounds like clutch gap problem. Bread clips or zip ties is the simple fix.jsrnsis wrote: 07 Jul 2023, 19:18What's your basic procedure for AC? I have a manifold gauge, I charge it to around 35 psi with the AC on full blast, and then when I actually drive the car, it eventually cuts out until I put the fan on max speed, and then cuts out completely and doesn't come back on when I go highway speeds to surface streets and stoplights. I cleaned the condenser with coil cleaner.abscate wrote: 07 Jul 2023, 18:38 Got Abby’s AC snicked in with a perfect charge and 40F cooling delta. It tosses ice cubes into the cabin
Changed oil in Shagg. Still waiting on clamps to finish cooling group refresh.
Changed oil on Bismarka, the 2013 Golf 5 speed
I can't pierce them cleanly with a screwdriver to drain them though, the metal is too thick.abscate wrote: 07 Jul 2023, 15:24 I’ve blown out two of the metal oil filters on P80s from rust out on the top
Shaggs was 12-24 months (?) old and looked nasty
Take home message. In wet climates these need annual replacement regardless of mileage
I literally charge to either
1. Mass if the system is fresh and empty
B.performance otherwise. I had not charged her AC in 5 years and I suspected she had lost some Freon, the baseline condition is 1500 rpm, full AC, recirc, fan on speed 3 with the compressor full time on, you aim for 30F delta between ambient and output at the center vent, measured with a stick thermometer
25F - that will get you comfortable and an older system with dirt on evaporator might be best you can do
30F/35 typical of a good condition system and will be really nice in hot summer
40F - usually about the best you can do and will only get this performance over about 30-50g refrigerant charge range
hot climates, stay on the low side of charge 50-70g below the 750g charge
Cold climates - stay 30-50g above charge capacity , if you play this right you get there without losing temperature delta






