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Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Delta Link Repair DIY
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RussB
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Re: Rear End Suspension Link Replacement

Post by RussB »

What is a rear top strut bearing? Are we still talking about 850's & C/S/V70's?
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Shock absorber mount at rear, sorry. If it's really messed up, it could screw up camber
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Post by camjohns »

how do you tell if they are messed up?

also i read somewhere that a cause of negative camber could be the springs. Any thoughts on that?

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Post by abscate »

If springs are visibly broken they could mess up camber. My 1999 springs were so compressed I had lost 38mm of ride height, but Camber and tire wear were normal. I think the spring axis is parallel to the camber angle pretty much.

Get the back end up safely on jack stands and start prying and looking for looseness

Delta links and torsion bar mounts are the usual culprits
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Post by Chuck W »

Popping this back up.

I have a '96 850 and I think these guys are the source of my clunking on the right rear of my 850. (Other pieces are all new).

Reading through all the ideas on removal, here and elsewhere, gives me ideas on getting them out. (The re-purposed MacPherson tool is a good idea)

Has anyone tried to use an air chisel to remove them? I would think a little heat and angry application of an air chisel should free them from the delta links.
Last edited by Chuck W on 26 Jul 2016, 06:52, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by LOB »

abscate wrote:Camber problems in the rear are either the delta link or the top strut bearing. Other than bent parts like the axle stub , there's nothing else.

The delta link job is a struggle but USE HEAT....it really makes it simpler.
If you (or my FORMER mechanics) put the right hand delta-link mount on the left side (and vice versa) you wil also end upp with camber problems...

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Post by DanZ51 »

I just did the LR delta link on my new-to-me '99 V70. I had a little wander still left after replacing the RF ball joint, 'didn't think much about it. I was tightening my LR wheel when the hub moved aft 1/2" !!WTF! After reading up on the delta link, I thought about buying the special tool (and then reselling it) or making one (w/welder). Then I read this.

I don't have a come-long but a do have a winch; 8000lb hydraulic on the front of my Jeep. :mrgreen: I secured the control arm to a stout tree (chain and straps), jacked up the side of the V70 from clearance, and "retrieved" the bad link straight out of the arm. No heat needed. Not much fanfare but it did take a bit of force (pull). I did plan of filming it for laughs but the winch was being uncooperative so there was a time crunch.

I quick test verified the new delta link wasn't gonna "slip in" either. So I spent a good amount of time cleaning out the arm with a few files. It still need to be persuaded, but it was nothing an old extension and a stout hammer couldn't handle.

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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

DanZ51 wrote:I just did the LR delta link on my new-to-me '99 V70. I had a little wander still left after replacing the RF ball joint, 'didn't think much about it. I was tightening my LR wheel when the hub moved aft 1/2" !!WTF! After reading up on the delta link, I thought about buying the special tool (and then reselling it) or making one (w/welder). Then I read this.

I don't have a come-long but a do have a winch; 8000lb hydraulic on the front of my Jeep. :mrgreen: I secured the control arm to a stout tree (chain and straps), jacked up the side of the V70 from clearance, and "retrieved" the bad link straight out of the arm. No heat needed. Not much fanfare but it did take a bit of force (pull). I did plan of filming it for laughs but the winch was being uncooperative so there was a time crunch.

I quick test verified the new delta link wasn't gonna "slip in" either. So I spent a good amount of time cleaning out the arm with a few files. It still need to be persuaded, but it was nothing an old extension and a stout hammer couldn't handle.
Would've loved to see that video!!!
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Post by Chuck W »

I wound up using the modded MacPherson spring compressor (had an old one that I need to replace, so I didn't worry much about hacking it up).

It was kind of tedious, but that and a little heat got the old one out.

Getting the new one in was a huge PITA. It took an extra set of hands to get things lined up and installing properly. The new outer retainer for the end of the link was larger than the hole it was meant for. I used the modded tool to press it back in, but I had to stop a couple times to re-align it, as it was pressing in crooked.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.

The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6

ed3701
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Post by ed3701 »

Just received end link and upon inspection one end of the link is about 1/4 inch longer than the other. This is the end that is bolts to the chassis. Just need to know if it matters which way it is bolted to the car. Looking at some of the pictures it seems the the longer part is at the top.

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