1999 v70t5m56 updating dashboard facia to wood

[abscate]

Foggy and Niel donated some nice wood faces to warm up the cool retro look of Elizabeth, the 1999 T5

Here’s the early look

[abscate]

The trim is held on with 10 T25 trim screws which are behind the dash. You need a t25 driver , and also a small T25 socket and short extensions to access some of these, and a mirror for viewing.

I took off the dash pad , which didn’t help access on the V70 dash at all. Documented below

The top three, two on sides and the odd third one starboard are pretty easy to remove with the glove box removed. Use a magnet to catch them

The next two mid radio port are harder but can be done with patience.

The bottom two are nasty boys and it’s hard to get light down there to visualize. Persevere and further

You have to remove the center console ( two 8mm hex heads hidden under console box, electrical , work over. Shifter and brake

This allows access to the three t25 on each side , one vertical, two horizontal

This is a tough project , 8/10 on the frustration scale. I’m pretty close to recommending a full dash pull to get this done , especially in ozone states where the plastic is likely to crack, requiring repairs. It was about three hours in with dash removal

Glove box trim, three t25, easy.

Console trim, a series of T25 which also secure wiring harnesses. Pretty easy , good access. I had to move my harness over as the trim was c70 so the wiring harnesses were different

[abscate]

Dash pad fasteners, v70 interior

Dads day visit by daughter and companion

[volvolugnut]

Nice visual upgrade.
volvolugnut

[scot850]

Hardest part by far is the center stack as the T25 screws are hidden in hard to reach (let alone see!) places around the circumference/perimeter. It is one of these jobs were I would procrastinate it to death! That is how you got the parts!

I had originally planned the parts for the 'R' but decided to leave it with the 'carbon affect' original finish as that is how it came.

Once it is fitted though it is definitely worth while when you see the end result!

Like you say, is is the sort of job to do when the dash is out for heating system or evaporator repairs.

Neil.

[abscate]

I wonder if the dogs see the pack grow up around them…….16 years later…

[abscate]

I left off some of the T25 on the top piece, see picture ( upside down)

[scot850]

Old thread alert!!

I was pulling wood faced parts today from the dashes of 2 cars.

Glove box is easy, remove inner 6 or 7? T25 screws from the edge. 1 either side in the corners (usually broken plastic from the glove box here) then pull the glove box liner out. There are some that have an extra support screw in the middle at the back, but I have only seen them on liners that have the 6 CD changer in them.
Next, disconnect the 2 door hinges. Requires a small screwdriver forced down the RH side of each hinge at the glove box door. There is a small indent you push the screwdriver into. It needs to be a really firm push and then the hinge is released. This allows undo the 4 x T25 bolts for the 2 hinges (2 each) and then lift the glove box door off. You can remove 3 x T25 screws on the glove box door just behind the wood trim, and carefully prize the trim out. I prefer to take the whole door as the wood trim is flimsy and likely to get broken.

Center console is easy as well but can be tricky. If the key is with the car, turn the key to POS II and press the brake pedal and push the shiftlock release button on the right of the gear shift lever and move the gear stick to N using the gearshift button.

Pull the parking brake up.

Open the cubby at the rear of the center console under the armrest. There is a little plat in the front of the cubby and it has a small indent for a flat blade screwdriver. Use a screwdriver to prize this up and the cover should pop out. Under there, there are 2 x 8mm headed bolts, remove them.

There is a plastic panel to the left of the parking brake lever. Twist this at the front counterclockwise/left and it should rotate and allow you to disconnect it from the console and then slide the boot over the parking brake lever. Under the panel there are 2 multi-pin connectors. Press on the middle of each and this releases them to separate.

Open the ashtray and remove 2 x T25 screws, 1 either side at the upper rear of it. This allows the whole unit to slide out forward and remove it.

Remove the coin holder, prize it from the rear rotating it forward and it comes out. You can the get your fingers into the hole and push the 2 seat heater switches up and disconnect. 2 tabs opposite each other.

Next remove the coin tray holder. You need to use a bone tool or blunt flat blade screw driver to lever it backwards at either end to release 2 tabs and then it lifts out.

There are 2 more T25 screws hidden at the front of the hole the large coin tray occupied. Remove the screws.

Finally, pull the front of the sides of the console outwards. There will be a loud click.

Now lift the console from the rear and tilt it at about 30 degrees which should allow the front to release and allow the console to be removed.

The wood is held in by 5 x T25 screws on the underside. You have to also remove 4 x T25 screws under the cubby box to allow you to disconnect the OBDII plug. It has a small plastic indent that you have to get it over to release it.

Disconnect the wiring harness plug to the rear 12V outlet and then finally east the 2 plastic blade tabs at the back of the wood panel out from the rest of the console.

Now finally, the center section. Abscate has detailed how he removed this without removing the dash. I'm not sure it is not quicker to remove the dash top and the dash itself. Takes about an hour once you have done this before.

Neil.

[abscate]

It’s a real struggle to remove the dash pad if you don’t remove the three m6 bolts holding the pad to the passenger air bag frame. They live in front of the top ridge of the glove box, after removal of same.

Disconnect battery, then disconnect SRS green wire either at connector or unplug airbag and then free up wire from frame