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v70 Ignition Coil Cover Screws RUST OUT

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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packetfire
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v70 Ignition Coil Cover Screws RUST OUT

Post by packetfire »

I had an ignition coil briefly fail, which threw a Check-engine light, just as the engine stumbled for a second. VIDA told me which cylinder, so easy job... so I thought.

One of the rear screws was rusted to the point that the torx bit stripped. All the screws were rusty, but they are special-shaped, so I had not replaced them.

I got out the screw extractor kit, but to drill the hole in the head of the screw, the strut-tower brace had to come off, and so did the big bolt through the middle of the upper engine torque mount.

Drilled the hole, and used the correct-size extractor - but it sheared off in the screw rather than moving the screw. ROBI's kit is clearly junk, despite looking very professional - avoid it! (Link below so one knows what NOT to buy):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Spira ... /205469301

So, got out the dremel tool, and cut a channel in the head off the screw, and used a cold chisel to tap it around in a circle

The lesson here is to replace those screws with stainless! M6 1.0 is the thread. Add washers if you can't find a big enough head on the screw or bolt. If stranded, I would have ended up having to pry on the plastic cover until it broke away, or use a pocket knife to cut the plastic around the stripped screw.

Very annoying, so be forewarned!
1982 240DL: Drove it 32 years and 1.5 million miles (sold, even still had mint leather!)
2001 v70 2.4T: The most expensive $1500 car I ever bought ("Volvo Turbo" - what an oxymoron!) (sold)
2004 v70: Far less fatally-flawed v70 - It served well (sold)
2010 v50: Smaller, slightly sportier wagon. Its got a spoiler, so I upgraded with sway bars!

chrism
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Post by chrism »

Whenever you have a Phillips or Torx screw that is so tight that you fear stripping the screwdriver slots or torx pocket when loosening, here is something that often helps:
take a drift punch that is narrow enough to reach the bottom of the slots/pocket and give it a few good raps with a ball peen. That will drive the center of the screw downward and relieve some of the load on the threads. It will then require less torque to unscrew the screw.

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Post by vtl »

I punch every stubborn bolt before even attempting to force it out.

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Once the ignition coil cover is out, leave it out. This allows you to inspect oil leak or change coil with ease.
I left my cover out yrs ago.

I only leave the TB cover on to protect the TB and that is all.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I like the look of the coil cover but only finger tighten the bolts. With my new valve job I no longer have oil to dip them in , though. If the do strip, a cold chisel will punch them around, then throw them out.

Perfect junkyard harvest
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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packetfire
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Post by packetfire »

Call me stupid, I replaced the bolts with stainless hardware.
1982 240DL: Drove it 32 years and 1.5 million miles (sold, even still had mint leather!)
2001 v70 2.4T: The most expensive $1500 car I ever bought ("Volvo Turbo" - what an oxymoron!) (sold)
2004 v70: Far less fatally-flawed v70 - It served well (sold)
2010 v50: Smaller, slightly sportier wagon. Its got a spoiler, so I upgraded with sway bars!

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