99 v70 Non Turbo ETM

RB3 · Post by **RB3** » 21 Jul 2023, 15:43

Dilemma...
99% needs replacing. 203,000 mi. ETS light on for a long long time. Although I have gotten it to go off from time to time. White label. When I read through the posts I see there was a program update way back when. Not sure if this one had that either. Do I try that first? Or is that redundant if I need a new or repaired one anyway?
Is Xemodex the best/only Way to proceed? How do I know if it's just the sensor? Or the mass air filter? Only codes I've gotten are 1027 and 1053.
Yes I get the limp mode. Not as much on the needle hunting I don't think. Stuttering at acceleration.
ALSO abs light intermittently. And I think that causes some of the same symptoms?
Where should I start? Don't want to pay hundreds for a scan.
If I do order from Xemodex, is there much difference in choosing the repaired one other than the downtime? Reading the website looks like they both come pre-programmed and ideally should work when installed.
Oh and if you take it to a dealer or Volvo shop do they just send them to Xemodex?
Thanks all Really want to nip this in the bud once and for all

Post by **scot850** » 21 Jul 2023, 20:00

You can swap a unit from a similar spec car. We are still debating if a manual and auto car with the same engine can be swapped over.

Only issue is that any replacement is likely to be as bad as yours, although I have been lucky with the ones I have pulled recently. There is a 99 S70 auto in a local junkyard that still had it's ETM a few days ago, but I did not pull it as it is an original white label. That being said, they charge about $35 CDN for them at that yard, and if it does not work you get an in store credit for that amount. There must be junkyards in your area that can supply that? Assuming you have an auto trans and non-turbo engine you are looking ideally for a 99 MY. I am not sure if a 2000 works as it had a 5 speed auto not a 4 speed auto as in 99. I would expect them to be interchangeable as I think a TCU will control the trans issues and the ETM the engine.

Xemodex is generally the way to go as their units are programmed or you get your own unit back, but others supply rebuilt units but they may need to be programmed.

We have the debate on disconnecting the MAF cable to see if the engine runs better.

The codes are of little help as was mentioned earlier as Volvo has many vehicle specific codes. I'm going to assume they are 'P' codes which are powertrain generic codes. Looking at them I can not make any sense of what they are telling me.

Are there any Indy Volvo shops around who may have a reader than can read your actual fault codes?

There is no easy way around fixing the issues. It is also hard for us to help as we don't have enough info to help. Cheapest way is either junkyard or Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265524497451

There are rebuilt units on Ebay which would get you a work around on having to remove your ETM and keep the car mobile.

All the symptoms you mention are those of a failing ETS and hence the light.

ABS is a whole other can of worms. Someone else may be able to say if this would affect the limp mode but I don't believe it would unless the speed sensor can affect your issue.

Best source for a rebuilt and lifetime warranted ABS module is Mid-West Abs. They have an exchange program.

Neil.

RB3 · Post by **RB3** » 21 Jul 2023, 20:58

Hmmm. Thank you. I assume you are suggesting junk yard or eBay to save $$. I would be hesitant as to reliability. Don't want the same issue in a year and haven't seen many of mine in the yards. Could look for yellow label I guess. It's a great suggestion tho. Hadn't really considered that. But the Xemodex rebuilds are contactless now is that correct? So less issues?

Think I'll definitely get the abs from mid-west asap. No brainer.

Appreciate the response.

Post by **FireFox31** » 21 Jul 2023, 22:04

ABS should not affect limp mode. Mine had failed ETM and ABS. Swapping in an ETM let it immediately run smoothly. Still haven't finished fixing the ABS 2 years later; simply pulled its power cord (which stops the brake from triggering but let's the speedo/odo work).

Post by **abscate** » 22 Jul 2023, 03:54

We put a 2000 m56 ETM into Firefox’s 2000 AT V70 without issues. Well, Firefox did.

The ETM part you want is the late 2012 contactless one made by Volvo on eBay for about $150, documented in the ETM room forum below

RB3 · Post by **RB3** » 22 Jul 2023, 12:14

Thanks Captain. I was curious if everybody was going in that direction now. I can appreciate keeping things stock but whatever works best. From what I'm reading it sounds like getting one off of eBay means that I don't have to go to the dealer and program it. it comes ready to go? Don't need any modifications? And then what about the sensor? May still need replacing?

You are all so very helpful. Thank you.

RB3 · Post by **RB3** » 13 Aug 2023, 15:25

Picked up a throttle module off of a '99 V70 last week at the junkyard. Unfortunately it seem to be in worse condition than mine. Shame those cars go to the junkyard for that. However in swapping it out it seemed my plug was wrapped behind the starter. I never did get it out. I just put the new/used ETM on just to try it out.
Is there a way to get that plug around the starter. Hate to have to cut that thing or remove the starter for a plug.
Guess I'm still searching for a working ETM. Need it sooner than later so may have to spend the big dollars with Xemodex. The ones on eBay do not come programmed.

Post by **abscate** » 13 Aug 2023, 16:06

See the ETM forum below for the discussion of the late model replacement EtM

Post by **scot850** » 13 Aug 2023, 19:43

Did you mean to add a link Abscate?

The cable is routed around the back of the starter. You cannot remove it easily. A NA motor ETM is easier to remove than turbo an way more accessible. There are 2 ways to do this:

1) Remove the starter completely which is painful but really only 3 bolts. If you have the battery disconnected, you can leave the starter wires connected, undo the 2 bolts at the RH end of the starter (when standing in front of the car). and also the bolt at the LH end of the starter which has one bolt to the block. The motor has a dowel pin aligning it to the engine so you may have to persuade it off that.

You can then remove the wire from behind the starter. No need to put the next ETM wire behind the starter, but tie wrap it out of the way of the cooling fan. That is what my buddy did. If you know the ETM is bad and don't plan to have it rebuilt you could just cut the ETM plug off and lave the starter alone.

2) Maybe almost as hard, remove the rear support bracket from the LH end of the starter motor. 2? smally nuts on the back of the starter, and the one bolt to the block. You can then slide the wire behind it to get it out. This is hard to do with the coolant fan in place, but then that is a few connectors and remove the 2 x T25 or T30 upper mounting screws and loosen the 2 lower ones enough to allow the motor to be slide up and out the way.

Neil.

Post by **FireFox31** » 14 Aug 2023, 21:10

I was able to disconnect the wiring harness for the ETM on a 2000 V70 without removing anything. Locate the connector (as shown in the attachment) below the starter's removable black plastic cover. Press the tab down on the right side (which I think is pinned to the bracket below) and pull the ETM's wire to the left. I had to do some careful maneuvering with my arms elbow-deep in the engine bay, but I removed the old wire and installed the new one. I'm pretty sure it's routed correctly.

Edit: The car on which I easily replaced the ETM had its starter replaced so they may have freed the ETM cable during that process. The car pictures is not the one I worked on, thus it might be illustrating a captive cable.