Has anyone had this happen - key cylinder

Post by **Grantkat** » 23 Jan 2024, 15:14

1999 S70 GLT

Over the past few weeks I occasionally have this happen. Leaving work i put the key in the cylinder and go to turn it and it turns freely all they way around without engaging the mechanism. Just freely spins. I removed it several times and put it back in but it didnt work. wiggled the wheel a bit and viola it worked fine. When I got home I tried to get it to do it again but it did not.
this is the 2nd time in 2 weeks. Last time i just turned it back and then forward again and it behaved normally. Today i had to work it a little bit.

thoughts?

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 23 Jan 2024, 17:34

Mine is kinda the opposite problem. When turning off the car, the accessory system often doesn't turn off. I have to turn the key back and forth until I hear HVAC system turns off. I've never had issues at startup.

Post by **scot850** » 23 Jan 2024, 19:15

OP, Grantkat, your issue is probably a worn or dirty ignition barrel or key which is not allowing the tumblers to move correctly to operate. Turning the key multiple times to make it work is just jiggling it loose. Try using the graphite dry lube for lock mechanisms put onto your key and try working that into the lock system. Otherwise a new key may be needed. Do you have a spare, and if you try that do you get the same issue?

454cid - In your car's case is may be the electrical portion of the ignition key that is worn out so is not always switching off.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 23 Jan 2024, 20:00

454cid….$50 repair

Kat $500 repair, sorry

My wrote up on key cylinder replacement is here, on Evita the 1999

Ignition key tumbler problem
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98078

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98078

Post by **Grantkat** » 24 Jan 2024, 09:00

abscate, I read through the posts in your topic link above. just to be clear, what you are saying is I need to replace the cylinder with a new one, aka dealer trip? thats the $500 fix?

adscate or scot850..is it worth trying the graphite lube or waste of time ?

I only have one key and one fob. so a cannot test using another key. I cannot tell if the key is worn or not, not having an example of a non-worn one.

Post by **scot850** » 24 Jan 2024, 10:10

I think the small cost of the lube is worthwhile. Some say using WD-40 is bad as it can allow the dirt to get further into the sliders and make the issue worse. At this point you are at the tipping point, so careful use of WD-40 followed by graphite powder on the key may help.

The issue you are getting is due to worn key and sticky tumblers. My issue when this happened was fixed by using WD-40 and getting a new key cut. You can prove the point by buying a new key and there is no need to have it programmed immediately, but tape the existing key to the underside of the steering column shroud and trying a fresh key cut by Volvo from a master program. Having a new key cut from your worn one won't work as you are just paying for a worn replacement.

Abscate is correct in the long term you will probably have to buy a replacement. I would first check the are still available as I thing they are now NLA for the new barrels.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Jan 2024, 11:29

Definitley try the lube approach. When you order the cylinder you get a fake key in metal with no chip so you do get a backup of sorts

Post by **Grantkat** » 25 Jan 2024, 11:16

Ok thanks guys. I did get a little more info after doing some testing. The key only spins when the steering wheel lock is engaged and the steering wheel itself is against the "limit". in other words the wheel will go slightly left but not right in lock position. When thats the case it spins. When you pull the wheel off the limit, it works.
I will also say this.. it seems a bit loose on the "spring" function. When you turn the key to start the spring should pull it back to the on/running position from the position far position used to engage the starter and it does, but the key has some play in it and I cant remember if it always been that way or if its somewhat new..My gut says thats recent.
Im going to grab seme graphite lube and try it...

am I reading correctly?? WD40 followed by graphite?

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 25 Jan 2024, 12:26

I would not want to use WD40 as it leaves a residue when it dries. I would use something like electrical contact cleaner. Note that I've never been inside the column or solved an issue here, either.

Post by **scot850** » 25 Jan 2024, 16:31

Problem with contact cleaner is it removes everything that lubes it. You could try it but the WD-40/graphite approach has worked for me. It is not ideal but at least a stopgap to get you going for now.

Neil.