2010 xc90 AC warm

[raquette]

AC has been getting increasingly warm over last few years.now only blows warm.

Replaced cabin filter. Had refrigerant checked. Compressor clutch is turning on as it should.

Checked AC solenoid valve with 12 volts and clicks as it should.

AC lines do not get cold. Is there anything else to perform diagnostics on?

Is there an in- line filter that is possibly clogged preventing the system to cool?

[Krons]

If it starts cold, and then cycles warm, it could be the clutch no longer grabs. Try the bread clip fix (or zip tie) fix to shim the clutch.

[chitownV]

I would keep it simple first, especially if the lines don't get cold.

1. Get the refrigerant checked again by a different reputable shop. The refrigerant should be vacuumed out, then the correct amount put in. If there is a leak, refrigerant should have a dye so you can use a blacklight or UV light to try to locate a leak. You can buy a pocket blacklight from Amazon for cheap. Low pressure would prevent the compressor from engaging while driving.

2. Still could be the A/C control valve or its o-rings. Still could be improper engagement of the clutch, or not strong enough engagement. The clutch issue can happen especially if the serpentine was replaced late or not at all. So, if you have over 100k miles and haven't done your serpentine systems work yet, that delayed maintenance could damage the A/C compressor clutch pulley.
Here's the link for the specific 3.2 maintenance and schedule: https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/the- ... st-7332383

3. I had an A/C compressor leak from its housing. I checked using a UV light. Was hoping it was just an o-ring, but then saw the dye spew trails from within the compressor housing. Replaced with a Valeo unit from a larger online retailer and found a coupon code. FCP didn't carry Valeo at the time.

For reference on the control valve:

[raquette]

Thanks Chitown V,

Serpentine, water pump. and idler pulleys replaced at 110k. This has progressively gotten worse over the last year with no cold air whatsoever in the tubes.

I am taking it into the volvo shop for diagnostic. As you say it could be the control valve even though it clicks with applying 12V.

[chitownV]

Sounds like a good plan. Just keep an open mind that it could be anything with your mileage.