AW55 sump drop without removing subframe?

[dikidera]

Most people drop the subframe a bit and support the engine somehow, is there a way to not drop the subframe but still remove the sump?

I wish to clean or replace the three solenoids and maybe backflush the internal filter via VB cover. I was thinking of removing the front engine mount, side mount, strut brace and lower torque rod and simply jack up the engine quite a bit. What do you all think?

[Blacklab467]

I don't think so, the problem is maneuvering the oil pan off the transmission around the valve body, I also remember that the pan comes out the bottom but I'll have to check my notes on that job. The torX bolts (T-45 I think) are difficult to access adequately without dropping the front of the subframe a couple inches. It's not a difficult job but there are lots of things to remove before you get to the valve body, kinda like a PCV job but not quite as bad.
My car is an XC 70, I believe you have an S-60 so it may be possible on that, I recall reading on this forum recently someone who had accomplished this without dropping the sub, not sure what model this was on.

[dikidera]

I only asked because of several YT comments

[Blacklab467]

That's good news, I wish I'd seen that before doing mine! It would literally shave off several hours of doing this job and certainly worth a try.

[dikidera]

I am very hopeful.

I will use firstv70volvo's guidance to backflush the internal filter, but using compressed air and fluid(atf), I think 80-100 psi should result in at least some sludge/gunk being flushed out. I wanted to buy a used VB for the solenoids, basically different solenoids, which I would open up and clean up and install in mine, and then reset adaptations to see what happens.

In the event that things are worse, I can always re-install the old solenoids and I am also capable of restoring my old adaptations.

[arrrxivvv]

I was able to remove the pan by jacking the engine up, as describe in that youtube comment, on a 2004 XC70.

[firstv70volvo]

I only asked because of several YT comments

Based on when I changed my rear engine mount I had to raise the engine up high enough to remove and insert the new mount and was surprised how high I had to raise the engine to get this done. I was even concerned the CV axle was going to pull out of the inner cup. The subframe is dropped a couple of inches and the engine is raised about an inch for clearance to remove the valve body so I can believe you can raise the engine up this amount but there are other considerations, you have to be careful of the wiring harness attached to the front subframe (remove the harness mounting bolts), you put more strain on the exhaust flex coupling and I'd say at least remove the axle outer bolt to allow the axle to move some in the outer joint splines if you do it this way. Also, if your car is a turbo I highly recommend removing the intercooler to throttle body pipe so you can remove and install the valve body cover from above and this also makes it much easier to get to the top cover bolts.

[dikidera]

It is a NA model so no turbo. I didn't think of the flex pipe or axles, but that is a nice addition. One thing I did notice is that the lower coolant hose did experience more pull than I would like when I was jacking up the engine to also replace the mounts, but we will see.

The problem here is, I have no way to hold the engine, to loosen the subframe means nothing should lay on it, the engine uses three mounts and lays on them. It is a rigid structure, which means that when you unbolt the two on the front, the two on the back need to be loosed on them, but wait, the engine lays on the steering rack which lays on the subframe. So I still need to hold it up, which means an engine hoist of some sort.

The subframe bolts are also torque to yield, once loosened, they need to be replaced.

[firstv70volvo]

It is a NA model so no turbo. I didn't think of the flex pipe or axles, but that is a nice addition. One thing I did notice is that the lower coolant hose did experience more pull than I would like when I was jacking up the engine to also replace the mounts, but we will see.

The problem here is, I have no way to hold the engine, to loosen the subframe means nothing should lay on it, the engine uses three mounts and lays on them. It is a rigid structure, which means that when you unbolt the two on the front, the two on the back need to be loosed on them, but wait, the engine lays on the steering rack which lays on the subframe. So I still need to hold it up, which means an engine hoist of some sort.

The subframe bolts are also torque to yield, once loosened, they need to be replaced.

There are DIY videos on Youtube about making your own engine support bar and might be worth a try if you can get the materials cheap enough. Some inexpensive engine support bars on Amazon if you can order them where you're at.

[Blacklab467]

Or you can put a piece of wood under the oilpan and hold it up with a bottle jack, you also want to be real careful with the steering coupler to the rack, or better yet disconnect it.