Hi Volvo folks
Been reading stuff on here for a while...do not think I have posted yet
I am looking for a new project...been into all kinds of 4 wheeled vehicles...grew up with German car guy for a father...so 1950s-1980s era Mercedes stuff...love the older for sure...
I have had VW's old Datsun trucks...more recently a couple of vintage stock cars...rat rod or two as well...old Chevy trucks as well...
The looks of a PV series I really like...but the Amazon is also a pretty cool older car too...
For a newbie Volvo guy...I need insight as to what would be a good first car...I like to weld and cut and grind...patina is my favorite paint finish too...
Thanks for any insight
MikeC
Looking for some vintage Volvo advice
I have a couple of vintage Volvo cars that I need to find new homes for. A 1974 164E and a 1970 P1800E. They are project cars. I am in Orlando, Florida. Let me know if you might be interested. My e-mail is [email protected].
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122sPhil
- Posts: 43
- Joined: 21 September 2025
- Year and Model: 1966 122
- Location: Vancouver BC
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 2 times
if you want a car you can get in and out of without lying down first 
Id pick a 122 or a 444/ 544 or a Duett , they are more rare and super cool too.
If you love welding, buy a rusty 1800 they are worth more on the market. The drivetrain is very similar.
Ilke the look of 1800's but I also like sitting upright so my preference is not an 1800.
I like the 4 doors, they were more expensive and you don't need to tip the seats to get pasengers or spare volvo parts in the back seat.
many will prefer the ( originally less expensive) 2 door 122 , they do bring higher prices, thought to be "more sporty" , although the perfomance and the weight is nearly the same. the 123 is a lot more rare, if you find one you are lucky. they had a limited slip diff.
122 wagons are nice too.
overdrive is a bonus.
these are unibody cars so depite enjoying welding, putting a car on a rotissary to fix the uniboildy frame components , this is not a job for the faint hearted.
I'd do two things, jack up a rear wheel put it in gear note how much backlash you have wnen turning the wheel.. if its lots, its got a worn drivetrain you can compare one car to the next that way. a worn out drivetrain can be a sign of overall mechanical wear because it all stacks up to that play you see at the rear wheel.
lie on your back looking up under the drivers seat, fi the frame is porous there its a sign of frame rust. That may be one of the early indicators of the frame becoming problematic.
most ive seen are heavily undercoated, the rust can creep between.
lower front fenders are prone but front fenders are an easy swap. often have been changed. Inner fenders are also rust prone and harder to fix.
look at the rear wheel fender lips, also under trunk carpets, you'll get good comparisons. if they are full of lumps of bondo it may be a cover up.
the odometers will wrap a few times during their lifetime so odometer readling means little. I like to look at the rubber mats as an indicator of mileage. if keys are sloppy and worn its probably higher mileage.
drivetrain and rust are probably deent indicators of what is a good buy, the drivetrian parts are fairly common and easily swappable.
Id pick a 122 or a 444/ 544 or a Duett , they are more rare and super cool too. If you love welding, buy a rusty 1800 they are worth more on the market. The drivetrain is very similar.
Ilke the look of 1800's but I also like sitting upright so my preference is not an 1800.
I like the 4 doors, they were more expensive and you don't need to tip the seats to get pasengers or spare volvo parts in the back seat.
many will prefer the ( originally less expensive) 2 door 122 , they do bring higher prices, thought to be "more sporty" , although the perfomance and the weight is nearly the same. the 123 is a lot more rare, if you find one you are lucky. they had a limited slip diff.
122 wagons are nice too.
overdrive is a bonus.
these are unibody cars so depite enjoying welding, putting a car on a rotissary to fix the uniboildy frame components , this is not a job for the faint hearted.
I'd do two things, jack up a rear wheel put it in gear note how much backlash you have wnen turning the wheel.. if its lots, its got a worn drivetrain you can compare one car to the next that way. a worn out drivetrain can be a sign of overall mechanical wear because it all stacks up to that play you see at the rear wheel.
lie on your back looking up under the drivers seat, fi the frame is porous there its a sign of frame rust. That may be one of the early indicators of the frame becoming problematic.
most ive seen are heavily undercoated, the rust can creep between.
lower front fenders are prone but front fenders are an easy swap. often have been changed. Inner fenders are also rust prone and harder to fix.
look at the rear wheel fender lips, also under trunk carpets, you'll get good comparisons. if they are full of lumps of bondo it may be a cover up.
the odometers will wrap a few times during their lifetime so odometer readling means little. I like to look at the rubber mats as an indicator of mileage. if keys are sloppy and worn its probably higher mileage.
drivetrain and rust are probably deent indicators of what is a good buy, the drivetrian parts are fairly common and easily swappable.
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