Working on a poorly maintained 2004 xc70 - tonight it was brakes. The passenger rear wheel seems welded (by corrosion?) to the hub. With lugnuts out I've been pounding on the rim with a rubber hammer for two days - I've used most of a can of liquid wrench in the lugnut holes and the seam between the hub and the wheel. Any other tricks for breaking an aluminum rim loose from a steel hub?
Edit: resolved. Lowering half of a tire with loose lug nuts onto a 4x6 wasn't enough to break the wheel loose from the center hub flange. Hitting an 8' 4x4 post with a maul, with the wood bearing on the rim - across and underneath the rear axle, ended up being successful.
While hammering, a lock ring fell off some part of the rear axle/hub/shock etc. Thoughts on where it fell from?
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Aluminum wheel corrosion welded (?) to hub
- DavidE7
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Strong heal kicks to the tire on alternating sides about a hundred times to rock the wheel back and forth to break the corrosion. Don't kick hard enough to knock the car off the floor jack, jack stands, or lift supporting the car. I found the kicks work better if you get under the car and kick the tire outward but the risk of the car falling on you is huge! I haven't had luck with sledge hammers because they just bounce off the tire.
David E
2001 Moondust V70 2.4 293,000 miles
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P2 Volvos for every person in my family
2001 Moondust V70 2.4 293,000 miles
2001 Nautic Blue V70 2.4 224,000 miles
2004 Nautic Blue XC70 2.5T 251,000 miles
new: 2004 Black Saphire V70R 193,000 miles
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- Krons
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There is an easier way. Loosen lug nuts to barely touching the wheel and slowly go for a drive, around a corner or roundabout is ideal. It’ll eventually break free.
I’ve learned to apply a light film of grease (or anti seize) to areas where wheel touches the rotor after that.
I’ve learned to apply a light film of grease (or anti seize) to areas where wheel touches the rotor after that.
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dikidera
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I would add to aim at the potholes.Krons wrote: ↑26 Mar 2025, 21:55 There is an easier way. Loosen lug nuts to barely touching the wheel and slowly go for a drive, around a corner or roundabout is ideal. It’ll eventually break free.
I’ve learned to apply a light film of grease (or anti seize) to areas where wheel touches the rotor after that.
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vtl
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I would add this is a call for troubles. Just take that spare wheel and smack the seized wheel off. Always works.dikidera wrote: ↑27 Mar 2025, 01:34I would add to aim at the potholes.Krons wrote: ↑26 Mar 2025, 21:55 There is an easier way. Loosen lug nuts to barely touching the wheel and slowly go for a drive, around a corner or roundabout is ideal. It’ll eventually break free.
I’ve learned to apply a light film of grease (or anti seize) to areas where wheel touches the rotor after that.
- Krons
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Too much force. I have a roundabout a few hundred yards from my house. One slow (10-15 mph) trip around and my seized wheel was loose.dikidera wrote: ↑27 Mar 2025, 01:34I would add to aim at the potholes.Krons wrote: ↑26 Mar 2025, 21:55 There is an easier way. Loosen lug nuts to barely touching the wheel and slowly go for a drive, around a corner or roundabout is ideal. It’ll eventually break free.
I’ve learned to apply a light film of grease (or anti seize) to areas where wheel touches the rotor after that.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
- Krons
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I’ve hurt myself or my cars too many times ‘smacking’.vtl wrote: ↑27 Mar 2025, 05:18I would add this is a call for troubles. Just take that spare wheel and smack the seized wheel off. Always works.dikidera wrote: ↑27 Mar 2025, 01:34I would add to aim at the potholes.Krons wrote: ↑26 Mar 2025, 21:55 There is an easier way. Loosen lug nuts to barely touching the wheel and slowly go for a drive, around a corner or roundabout is ideal. It’ll eventually break free.
I’ve learned to apply a light film of grease (or anti seize) to areas where wheel touches the rotor after that.
Loosening the lug bolts (with all of them still threaded well onto the hub) and driving at 10-15 mph is not going to damage anything.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
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dikidera
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*in case of extreme welding* thenvtl wrote: ↑27 Mar 2025, 05:18I would add this is a call for troubles. Just take that spare wheel and smack the seized wheel off. Always works.dikidera wrote: ↑27 Mar 2025, 01:34I would add to aim at the potholes.Krons wrote: ↑26 Mar 2025, 21:55 There is an easier way. Loosen lug nuts to barely touching the wheel and slowly go for a drive, around a corner or roundabout is ideal. It’ll eventually break free.
I’ve learned to apply a light film of grease (or anti seize) to areas where wheel touches the rotor after that.
- abscate
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Worst one I ever had…4x4 long timber under car, propped to bear on wheel, then sledge from other side
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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