Hi, I recently purchased a 1990 960 non runner, that I had hoped to get running and use daily..
Its got no spark, i’ve changed the crank sensor with a known good part, and checked resistance of the component, i’ve checked continuity between the ecu and the crank sensor and all ok.
Im testing the spark by putting a spark plug in the coil, and grounding the threads on top of the engine. The CPS and ignition modules came out of a running car just to try.
I’ve checked all fuses, I replaced fuse 31 even though it measured ok.
I have power to all coils, and with my probes in both pins on the coil, i have around 5-7v with key on,is this ok?
I’ve checked resistance of coils and all ok.
What am I missing?
Ive checked all grounds that I can see, all ok. I’ve tested the grounds on pin 4 of the ignition modules, all ok >0.1ohm
I’ve replaced one igniton module with a known good, all ok. Checked the earth for the ignition module and is ok
Am I right in thinking the 12v permanent to the coils is fed by the ignition relay, and the switched earth is from the ignition amplifiers bolted to the head?
Would anyone be able to provide pinouts to test the amplifiers and the wiring back to the ecu / coils?
I’ve ordered a 2nd hand ecu to try, as part of me thinks it might have been spiked by the previous owner when he replaced the fuel components
The previous owner tells me that he was driving it, ran out of fuel it cut out and now hasn’t started since.
Thanks in advance!!
No spark on 1990 960
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Buzzard960
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- Year and Model: 1990 960 3.0
- Location: England
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Vova585
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If he was running out of fuel and than the car stopped working, I would suspect he killed fuel pump. But in your case you have no spark. I am honestly quite impressed to learn that 1990 had a 6 ignition coil design. I am questioning your 5-7v at ignition coil. Have you had an opportunity to check voltage drop in main power and ground cable? Is your battery on maintainer? It makes sense to assume 1990 technology was using 12v power feed and ground control. However, I don't have a diagram next to me. I think all data DIY is not too expensive for a single model car. Alternatively, ebay has nice sets of paper oem repair manuals for a decent price($80 what I was able to see. So if you plan to keep this car, might be worth the money).
On the other note, please use substitute load when test power and ground. One can be made from 2-5amp light bulb depending on the component being tested. Resistance is not a good test.
On the other note, please use substitute load when test power and ground. One can be made from 2-5amp light bulb depending on the component being tested. Resistance is not a good test.
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Buzzard960
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 27 April 2025
- Year and Model: 1990 960 3.0
- Location: England
- Has thanked: 1 time
Hi, thank you for your reply mate.
I shall use a load tester and check again, good point.
As for checking voltage drop, am I testing between where the ground cable goes onto the chassis leg, and the positive battery terminal?
Thank you!
I shall use a load tester and check again, good point.
As for checking voltage drop, am I testing between where the ground cable goes onto the chassis leg, and the positive battery terminal?
Thank you!
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