salvage engine prep

MamaForestCritter · Post by **MamaForestCritter** » 12 Jul 2026, 15:55

Hi! I'm replacing my 2002 volvo V70 engine that threw rods with a 2006 that I got from salvage. My question to all is how deep should I get into cleaning it up? I have new parts for the timing and I will be putting on new coils and spark plugs and cam seals. I have an engine stand and I will be dropping the oil pan and cleaning it. I am really, really hesitant to open the head. Any advice?
Also I will be taking off the manifold and putting in a mew pcv breather.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 12 Jul 2026, 17:46

How much history do you know on the salvage engine? Mileage? Service history?
If you are doing cam seals you may as well do water pump and idlers also. Maybe crank seals if you did not already mention them. May as well renew any wire loam you can reach.
I would be very reluctant to open the head unless you have good reasons.
volvolugnut

jrschwit · Post by **jrschwit** » 13 Jul 2026, 12:12

Good advice from lugnut about belts and peripherals. If you cannot find an accurate history about previous service or mileage, I'd take a clue from the donor car's condition if you can get it. Example: salvage caused by a significant fender bender MAY indicate it was running satisfactorily at the time.

I'd also check compression for an indication of potential issues. Not a perfect indicator, since if it's been sitting a good while, low compression on one cylinder may not be caused by anything other than a bit of debris on an open valve seat (rather than an indication of gasket/ring problems).

I've reconditioned and am maintaining 6 P2s for immediate family and local grandchildren. Recently I pulled an engine/trans from an 04 V70 NA after checking compression while it was still in the car at the local yard. Took a battery pack and and jumpered the starter at the relay in the fuse box. Excellent compression with trivial variance. Pulled the engine/trans the next day. For $350, I now have ready spare engine with moderate confidence that internals are good. Transmission is a gamble, though....

Post by **vtl** » 13 Jul 2026, 12:25

Replace the rear main seal while it's accessible. The rest you can fix with the engine sitting in place.

I would also remove the exhaust manifold and inspect exhaust valves for signs leaking oil. If valve stem seals are leaking it is immensely easier to replace them while having access to them all around.

Also check the manifold for straightness. If it's warped, you better resurface it, or it will eventually crush the gaskets and/or pull studs out of the head.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 13 Jul 2026, 12:42

I would start with getting a good articulating borescope(teslong makes a good one for around $130). Remove spark plugs and inspect them for any damage to suggest uneven wear. With borescope inspect the cylinders and valve for damage, signs of "oil hunger", burnt/damaged valves. If all looks decent- move forward as recommend above.

Post by **jonesg** » 13 Jul 2026, 22:00

The dreaded pcv banjo bolt.

Post by **scot850** » 14 Jul 2026, 08:36

My mechanic friend advises to replace the exhaust studs and nuts. The gaskets for the exhaust manifold are a 'must-do' as at this age they are going bad.

Updated banjo bolt as per jonesg

Rear main as also recommended

I'd suggest pull the oil pan and replace the o-ring seals between the pan and the block and reseal the pan. While it is off, clean the drain tube as it is accessible from the PCV catch can into the oil pan.

Neil.

MamaForestCritter · Post by **MamaForestCritter** » 14 Jul 2026, 11:21

Thank you all! I'm going to start cleanup today. The salvage yard ran a compression test. I had it shipped so I had to take it on trust. I'm way past warranty at this point but they did guarantee it for a couple of months. I live in a sort of Volvo no man's land. I read about the dread banjo bolt. I'm rather relieved at not opening the head. That was my concern. The oil pan will be coming off. I figure that will give me some clues. I've got new gaskets and seals for everything else I can take off.

Post by **vtl** » 14 Jul 2026, 12:02

MamaForestCritter wrote: 14 Jul 2026, 11:21 Thank you all! I'm going to start cleanup today. The salvage yard ran a compression test. I had it shipped so I had to take it on trust. I'm way past warranty at this point but they did guarantee it for a couple of months. I live in a sort of Volvo no man's land. I read about the dread banjo bolt. I'm rather relieved at not opening the head. That was my concern. The oil pan will be coming off. I figure that will give me some clues. I've got new gaskets and seals for everything else I can take off.

You engine has no turbo. It has no valve in banjo bolt that can separate and fly into one of cylinders. Your banjo bolt is hollow. No need replacing it. Revising PCV while it's all easy to access would be still wise.

For the rear main seal you need a tool that uses flywheel bolts to press it evenly. I've got one cheap from V-Garage years ago, but looks like they are out of business. You may also want to buy a new flywheel bolts or at least reapply the yellow oil-resistant thread sealant, since the holes for these bolts go through the block to oil passage that is under pressure.

Post by **scot850** » 14 Jul 2026, 23:50

I realize now that the replacement engine has the intake on the LH end for the NA throttle body. Do'h! Yup, no banjo bolt.

Neil