Do-it-yourself maintenace opinions welcome

potroast · Post by **potroast** » 16 Jun 2004, 19:20

Okay, well, I took my 1993 850 GLT into the mechanic to get an honest, no-bull assesment of what needs to be done. Here was the conclusion, approximate costs are in (parenthesis) and include new, genuine Volvo parts and labor:

* Serpentine belt ($105)
* Seals on transmission cooler lines ($50)
* Oil drain plug w/new oil ($44)
* Replace motor mount ($165)
* Sway bar bushings ($84)
* Ball joint replacements ($220)
* Sway rod replacement ($140)
* Tire end rod replacement ($96 labor, don't know parts cost)
* 4-wheel alignment ($70)

He wants $1,080 out the door for all of this. Now, I've got a few questions:

1) Is this a good price?
2) How crucial are the items on this list?
3) Money is tight right now, so is there anything that I can hold off on for about a month, or is it all critical?
4) Of these items, can any be done by a "mechanically-inclined" person? By this I mean I am very capable of doing basic automotive repair such as changing spark plugs, oil, and I can do anything with a little direction. Since labor is the cost that's killing me right now (over half of the cost would be labor) is there anything I can do?

Thank you in advance.

Post by **matthew1** » 16 Jun 2004, 20:29

* Serpentine belt ($105)

Easy. I have a How To for this on my main page in the section Repair Instruction, Tips and Fixes.

* Seals on transmission cooler lines ($50)

Don't know.

* Oil drain plug w/new oil ($44)

Easy. Get a oil drain container from an auto parts store, should be around $6. Jack up the car or drive it onto ramps *PLEASE be careful -- a friend of my family died when his car fell on him*, undo the drain plug -- 17mm socket if I remember right -- and drain the oil into the container. Most/all the parts stores I've ever been in take used oil/coolant for no charge. You should get a new crush washer, according to Volvo, but many just reuse the same. I've reused the same one once or twice. You don't need a new drain plug bolt. Be careful threading it back in, the block's aluminum. Put a new oil filter on also. You don't need an oil filter tool unless yours is on very tight. I've never needed the tool.

* Replace motor mount ($165)

Which? If it's the upper, it's easy, and I have a How To for this on my main page in the section Repair Instruction, Tips and Fixes. Haven't done lower/don't know.

* Sway bar bushings ($84)
* Ball joint replacements ($220)
* Sway rod replacement ($140)
* Tire end rod replacement ($96 labor, don't know parts cost)

Don't know, but I'm going to tackle a bunch of stuff here in the next few weeks with the front suspension. I'm hearing odd noises.

* 4-wheel alignment ($70)

There's no way you can do this at home. $70 sound right to me.[/quote]

potroast · Post by **potroast** » 16 Jun 2004, 20:45

matthew1 wrote:
* Serpentine belt ($105)
Easy. I have a How To for this on my main page in the section Repair Instruction, Tips and Fixes.

I'll look at that after I make this post. Thanks.

matthew1 wrote:
* Oil drain plug w/new oil ($44)
Easy. Get a oil drain container from an auto parts store, should be around $6. Jack up the car or drive it onto ramps *PLEASE be careful -- a friend of my family died when his car fell on him*, undo the drain plug -- 17mm socket if I remember right -- and drain the oil into the container. Most/all the parts stores I've ever been in take used oil/coolant for no charge. You should get a new crush washer, according to Volvo, but many just reuse the same. I've reused the same one once or twice. You don't need a new drain plug bolt. Be careful threading it back in, the block's aluminum. Put a new oil filter on also. You don't need an oil filter tool unless yours is on very tight. I've never needed the tool.

I just changed the oil and filter on Sunday with Mobil-1 and a new Mobil-1 filter -- so having to change the oil is really frustrating. Can the drain plug and seal wait till the next oil change?

matthew1 wrote:
* Replace motor mount ($165)
Which? If it's the upper, it's easy, and I have a How To for this on my main page in the section Repair Instruction, Tips and Fixes. Haven't done lower/don't know.

It's the lower, and I've done one before -- it's very worth what the mechanic is charging for that, so he'll likely be doing that one

matthew1 wrote:
* Sway bar bushings ($84)
* Ball joint replacements ($220)
* Sway rod replacement ($140)
* Tire end rod replacement ($96 labor, don't know parts cost)
Don't know, but I'm going to tackle a bunch of stuff here in the next few weeks with the front suspension. I'm hearing odd noises.

These were the ones that I was really concered with. It's the bulk of the money required, and I'm thinking I may do em myself... I just have to get the info on how to do em.

matthew1 wrote:
* 4-wheel alignment ($70)
There's no way you can do this at home. $70 sound right to me.

[/quote]
I know that I can't do this -- but if I do the suspension, I'll take it to a tire shop to get it done. Come to think of it, I need new tires soon, so I may just get tires and they'll align for free, right?

But if anyone has info on the suspension stuff, that's what I'm really interested in right now... thanks.

Post by **matthew1** » 16 Jun 2004, 20:49

I just changed the oil and filter on Sunday with Mobil-1 and a new Mobil-1 filter -- so having to change the oil is really frustrating. Can the drain plug and seal wait till the next oil change?

Yes. I'm curious -- why did the shop say you need a new plug? I've never heard that. Crush washer, but never plug. Is it dripping?

potroast · Post by **potroast** » 16 Jun 2004, 20:55

my mechanic is *very* anal... That's actually why I took it to him -- I want a list of *everything* that is wrong with the vehicle, so I can take care of everything.

I think he's being anal regarding the plug, because I was very careful about checking leaks, and after leaving the car parked in the same spot overnight for several nights, not one drop is on the ground.

I will probably just replace the rubber seal to be safe, and I'll wait until the next oil change to do it.

But yeah, as I mentioned earlier, my mechanic will tell you *everything* that is wrong with the vehicle -- even down to the really really stupid stuff, like "your lug nuts were 5 ft/lbs off on the torque.... um, okay, I think that 5 ft/lbs is within understandable limits, lol.

Glen · Post by **Glen** » 17 Jun 2004, 14:14

The front sway bar bushings are a pain to change, the main problem is getting to the bolts with a wrench. One of those move it very little a lot of times situation until the bolts come out. The old bushing and the new ones need some persuasion and you grunt and curse a lot but you can do it your self. As for the sway bar ends are you talking about what I refer to as the dog bones (cuz they look like a dog's bone", those should be very straightforward to change. If you do both at the same time it should make the bushing job easier - I changed my bushings without undoing the ends of the sway bar and might have made the job more difficult. By the way I changed my bushings because I could hear a rattle/knocking noise when going over bumps, jacked up the car and shook the sway bar real hard and could hear the noise so changed out the bushings. This firmed up the handling a little but I don't think it was ever a dangerous situation. Mine is also a 93 850 with about 80,000 miles so if you have more mileage the bushings probably do need to be changed. Had the dog bones changed at 60,000 miles on the recommendation of a forgien car shop. Have no clue if they really needed changing or not, car repair is about the only place you get things done then always wonder if it was really necessary. Good luck on your repairs!!!