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98 S70 timing belt tension failure

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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98s70sc
Posts: 5
Joined: 11 May 2009
Year and Model: 1998 S70
Location: tennessee

98 S70 timing belt tension failure

Post by 98s70sc »

Hey guy's awesome sight I wish I had found sooner.
Anyway, the auto tensioner for my timing belt failed at about 70-75 on the interstate last week. I have only dug into it enough to to know that it was the tensioner and not the belt. I'm assuming the valves are bent but have not gotten into head yet to see. At this point I'm trying to decide if the car is worth repairing. It has 156,000 miles and is in other wise very good condition. I have found a used head for $350. Has anyone had experience with this before and am i not thinking of anything else that could be damaged.

tjts1
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Post by tjts1 »

Buy a complete engine. It'll be cheaper/faster/easier.
Ambitious but rubbish

vegasjetskier
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Post by vegasjetskier »

98s70sc wrote:am i not thinking of anything else that could be damaged.
Pistons, cylinders, connecting rods. I'd tear it down to see what you have before buying any parts.
.

SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.

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renns
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Post by renns »

With the belt failing at higher engine speed, damage is likely to be extensive. I'd be inclined to swap out the entire engine as well. Just be careful to get the exact same model, or check to ensure the one you get is compatible with the engine control systems.
1994 850 5-speed wagon, retired at 400,000 km
1998 V70 AWD 5-speed, retired at 358,000 km.
2005 XC70 275,000 km - daily driver

98s70sc
Posts: 5
Joined: 11 May 2009
Year and Model: 1998 S70
Location: tennessee

Post by 98s70sc »

Thanks guys. I think I am just going to replace the motor. I can get one with around 100K for about $700.

jjjh2n
Posts: 20
Joined: 4 January 2009
Year and Model: 98 s70 glt
Location: Dayton, TN

Post by jjjh2n »

I am probably wrong on this, but I thought that the whole point of the white plastic clip on the tensioner was a safety if the tensioner ever failed.

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

You are correct but usually if it fails, it fails and the white snap-on disc will make little difference.
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wheelsup
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Post by wheelsup »

Kinda pisses you off that Volvo didn't make an iron or steel version of that clip or extend the tensioner that amount so lost tension wasn't the end of the world. I wonder how many otherwise perfect engines were lost due to the tensioner failing.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles

Brucebo
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Post by Brucebo »

wheelsup wrote:Kinda pisses you off that Volvo didn't make an iron or steel version of that clip or extend the tensioner that amount so lost tension wasn't the end of the world. I wonder how many otherwise perfect engines were lost due to the tensioner failing.
Does anybody have any knowledge, data, or just a gut feeling, on which of the two S70 tensioner styles is more robust/reliable, the older hydraulic tensioner or the newer, hand cranked manual tensioner?

-Bruce

98s70sc
Posts: 5
Joined: 11 May 2009
Year and Model: 1998 S70
Location: tennessee

Post by 98s70sc »

Update.
Short version of loooong story.
Every valve was bent only 2 could be removed without cutting the ends off. So I went with a new "used" motor for $650 at 116k.
Replaced tension and idle pulley and auto tensioner, water pump, and belts also broke the reservoir on the power steering pump pulling the old motor out but the guy I got the motor from gave me a new one. Put the new motor in and it ran like a champ, the only problem is it had a major oil leak. Pulled the motor back out to find it was the rear main seal which didn't show any signs of leaking before. So replaced rear main $20 and transmission seal while it was out. I guess the moral to the story is replace the auto tensioner no matter the type when you do a timing belt. The original was a mechanical the new a hydraulic but for $80 while you are in the middle of it better safe than sorry with these things. Moral #2, while you have the entire engine out go ahead and replace all those silly little cheap seals and gaskets unless you just like doing things twice. Currently it's running like a champ and not a drop of anything leaking.

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