S80 T6 2002 Rebuild suspension

[seansdad]

I have a big project on my hands. I found my upper engine mount and lower torque mount is bad, my passenger side control arm bushings are bad and I was told by a mechanic I had bad front struts (braking dive). I have 118k and never had struts before. Car is on jacks and wheel and fender skirts are off. How do I properly test for tie rod end problems or strut link problems? Where is the best place to get struts and any recommendations on brand? Do I need a compressor tool and the spring seat tools to remove the stuts (any procedures and diagrams)? My strut torque bar moves around freely when twisted, it seems from reading this is as designed, any thoughts? I also have a problem when making hard right turns (like a sharpe U turn or possitioning to back into a tight space) the steering wheel becomes very hard to turn. Mechanic said I am hitting bump stops. They are very badly worn on both sides. I know the difference between hitting the stops and the binding. Another mechaic said the problem was axle bind. I would love to hear your opinions and expereince. I am not afraid of anything mechanical and have a significant arsenal of tools. Oh BTW, I cannot afford to have all this done at the shop right now thats why I am doing all of this. Your thoughts?

Whiel at it, I have been through two sets of rotors in as many months up front. Used Brembo rotors instead of Volvo, is that my problem? New pads and new calipers already

[vegasjetskier]

The control arm bushings are very hard to change by yourself unless you have a hydraulic press. You might want to purchase the whole control arm instead. If so, I'd get genuine Volvo, not an aftermarket one. I believe you have to lift up the engine about and inch to get access to the bolts. Let me know if you need directions on it as it's quite complicated.

If the tie rods are shot (they probably are at this mileage), you should be able to feel some play as you twist the spindle back and forth.

If the sway bar end-links are shot (they probably are at this mileage), you should be able to feel some play if you lift up on the ends of the sway bars. I would get IPD's heavy-duty replacements.

For struts, I would go OEM Volvo to maintain the original feel of the suspension (the T6 already has a harder ride than the non-T6 cars). Get them at www.myswedishparts.com, Darryl Waltrip Volvo, or www.tascafordparts.com (also sells Volvo parts). You will probably want to change the spring seats (IPD has a heavy-duty one, and some people use XC90 seats as they're stronger), and possibly the mount also (but they're quite pricey @ about $100 each).

You will need a compressor tool. I have read of people getting the struts apart without the other special tools, but don't have specific directions.

When you say "strut torque bar," do you mean the sway bar? The swaybar bushings are vulcanized to the swaybar and have a preload when they're in the right position. If yours just swivels in the bushings then the bond has broken and you won't have the preload, but the swaybar will still work, just not as good.

The steering stops are replaceable. IPD has some in different thicknesses so you can make sure your tires don't hit the wheelwells. If it's really hard to steer at the end of the travel, you might have a problem with the power steering. How is the fluid level?

I also had problems with the Brembo brakes on my car. I think the quality has probably dropped since they started having the discs made in China. My solution is at the bottom of this thread: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?p=50801

You will spend quite a bit of cash fixing all these things, but you will save a lot more doing the work yourself.

Let me know if you need directions for anything.

[seansdad]

Thanks Vegasjetskier! I was referring to the Sway Bar End Links that go from the strut to sway bar. They rotate freely when twisted, but also have a little play when you push and pulll on them. As far as the binding in the sterring, the fluid is great, and you do not notice until you try to turn the wheel a significant amount fast. BTW, how do I test the front motor mount under the timing belt? I do not see visable cracks, but since I and right there, I wanted to check it and repalce if damaged. If you find a procedure for properly jacking the engine up to get at the dirvers side control arms, let me know. I read somewhere that you cannot lift it more then a small amount without causing problems.

I will get the parts on order today and will update you on my progress.

[vegasjetskier]

The Sway Bar End Links should be able to twist back and forth, but otherwise should have no play in them.

WRT the steering, this is a stretch, but how is your serpentine belt? Maybe when you turn the wheel hard the belt is slipping over the pump pulley and the assist is gone. Do you hear a squeal?

Look for cracks in the engine mount. The only way I know to test the engine mount is to lift the engine a small amount and make sure the rubber stretches. If only the metal section goes up, the mount is bad.

Here's a PDF on how to change the mount:

S80RightEngineMountReplacement2002.pdf

(68.82 KiB) Downloaded 820 times

You have to remove the engine vibration damper. Here's Brucebo's experience taking his damper off: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=20856

Here's how to change the control arms:

S80ControlArmsReplacement2002.pdf

(154.9 KiB) Downloaded 216 times