I just replaced pads and rotors front and rear. I also bled the brakes as I have in the past with success. I left the car running. I opened a wheel cylinder nipple and the pedal down stroke and closed it on the upstroke, adding brake fluid to the reservoir.
Now the braking is poor. Feels like I'm not going to get stopped especially going down hill, and it seems like thre may be more pedal travel than I should have with new rotors and pads.
Do new pads and rotors behave like this until broken in, or do I have some other problem?
Thanks
George Harper
S-60 2.4T 2001 Poor Braking
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vegasjetskier
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No, you have some other problem. Did you put the caliper springs back on correctly?allureboy wrote: Do new pads and rotors behave like this until broken in, or do I have some other problem?
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
Yes, I believe I put all the springs back on correctly.
I made a 60 mile trip this afternoon and the braking now seems more efficient, but not back to normal. Should I expect normal 100% braking immediately after installing new rotors and pads?
I believe I cleaned the rotors correctly. I sprayed them with brake parts cleaner and wiped them with a clean rag. I did this step twice on each face of each rotor.
Was my bleed method OK?
I made a 60 mile trip this afternoon and the braking now seems more efficient, but not back to normal. Should I expect normal 100% braking immediately after installing new rotors and pads?
I believe I cleaned the rotors correctly. I sprayed them with brake parts cleaner and wiped them with a clean rag. I did this step twice on each face of each rotor.
Was my bleed method OK?
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