I am trying to get the rotors off this car, but something tightened up the parking brake this last month or so (wife just told me 2 days ago about a constant noise).
I go buy all OEM parts: new park brake shoes, rotors, pads. I got the caliper off and tied up safely, rotor is loose, but the darn parking brake will not let it loose.
So before I potentially damage the interior trying to get at the adjustment for the passenger side line (2 seperate lines from back to lever) I wanted to see if anyone was on who could ease my apprehension as I know interior parts are not cheap for these things!
Thanks a ton guys
1999 S70 T5se - Getting access to adjust parking brake?
- matthew1
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The interior adjustment for my 97 is at the base of the e brake handle... just have to take off a plastic piece. Does that help?
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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Jay in Michigan
Take off as in pull it off, or is there a special tool I should have?
**I found the adjustment at the wheel and backed it all the way off.
**Current clicks required to lock up the old side = 1-2
**New side I have backed ALL the way off and does not lock up (trying to pinpoint why the parking break still makes noise on both sides.
A little more info:
Sorry for the desperate post
2 days ago, the wife informed me the car made "noise" when she was driving for the past 3+ months... sigh. Which after looking at the damage, probably more like 6 months
I testdrove the car and crawled under it.. metal to metal.
I did the front end no problem including ball joints, rotors and pads. (the other day)
--Currently her car is jacked up in the air, I purchased all OEM parts: Rotors, pads, and shoes.
Finally got the rotor off, thanks to some tutorials here and another site, plus manual. I learned a few tricks on my own on how to get the rotor off with a punch from the front side, making sure I was only hitting the brake shoe lightly.
CURRENT problem I am having... I backed off the adjustment in the back all the way... put on the new rotor over the old parking brake just to make sure everyting was fine..
So I put some lugnuts inn the rotor and spin it.. I still hear the brake rub noise on the new side, same as the undone side.. I pull the parking brake and the new side does not lock up. This is to be expected as I backed the adjustment ALL the way off.
Any ideas what I am doing wrong? Or should I go ahead and replace the old parking shoes now and then test?
The brake shoes have plenty left on them, so I was thinking of not replacing them and getting my money back. If they potentially get warped sommehow, or they decompose after 10 years and warp or expand, this might explain it.
-Jay in Michigan.
**I found the adjustment at the wheel and backed it all the way off.
**Current clicks required to lock up the old side = 1-2
**New side I have backed ALL the way off and does not lock up (trying to pinpoint why the parking break still makes noise on both sides.
A little more info:
Sorry for the desperate post
2 days ago, the wife informed me the car made "noise" when she was driving for the past 3+ months... sigh. Which after looking at the damage, probably more like 6 months
I testdrove the car and crawled under it.. metal to metal.
I did the front end no problem including ball joints, rotors and pads. (the other day)
--Currently her car is jacked up in the air, I purchased all OEM parts: Rotors, pads, and shoes.
Finally got the rotor off, thanks to some tutorials here and another site, plus manual. I learned a few tricks on my own on how to get the rotor off with a punch from the front side, making sure I was only hitting the brake shoe lightly.
CURRENT problem I am having... I backed off the adjustment in the back all the way... put on the new rotor over the old parking brake just to make sure everyting was fine..
So I put some lugnuts inn the rotor and spin it.. I still hear the brake rub noise on the new side, same as the undone side.. I pull the parking brake and the new side does not lock up. This is to be expected as I backed the adjustment ALL the way off.
Any ideas what I am doing wrong? Or should I go ahead and replace the old parking shoes now and then test?
The brake shoes have plenty left on them, so I was thinking of not replacing them and getting my money back. If they potentially get warped sommehow, or they decompose after 10 years and warp or expand, this might explain it.
-Jay in Michigan.
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Jay in Michigan
Those dillholes at the dealershit... grrr
They told me there was only 1 adjustment for the ebrake and it would have to be the ebrake cables "dragging" and quoted my wife like 600$.
Well it appears to be the shoe backing/guide that has deteriorated. Luckily the shoes from the dealership came with 4 new ones. It makes sense to me now, the backs/guides no longer could keep the pressure on the shoes keeping them perpendicular with the rotor.
About 15 minutes after I finally got the rotor off and took a step back and looked at how they worked again, it made total sense. Too bad for me I lost 30 mins trying to bend the old ones back and cleaning them up before I realized the shoes came with them
I fit the rotor on there and centered the shoes, it is dead quiet now, no rubbing.
I have to finish the new pads and button everything up before I can adjust them, I will let you know how it goes.
Total cost so far for rotors, pads, and shoes is 250$
They told me there was only 1 adjustment for the ebrake and it would have to be the ebrake cables "dragging" and quoted my wife like 600$.
Well it appears to be the shoe backing/guide that has deteriorated. Luckily the shoes from the dealership came with 4 new ones. It makes sense to me now, the backs/guides no longer could keep the pressure on the shoes keeping them perpendicular with the rotor.
About 15 minutes after I finally got the rotor off and took a step back and looked at how they worked again, it made total sense. Too bad for me I lost 30 mins trying to bend the old ones back and cleaning them up before I realized the shoes came with them
I fit the rotor on there and centered the shoes, it is dead quiet now, no rubbing.
I have to finish the new pads and button everything up before I can adjust them, I will let you know how it goes.
Total cost so far for rotors, pads, and shoes is 250$
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