Volvo 960, 1996, need to replace seatbelt latch
Volvo 960, 1996, need to replace seatbelt latch
Hi guys, I am a newbie, but I looked over your repair listings and forum posts and I did not see an answer to my problem. The driver side seat belt latching mechanism on our 960 sedan won't release when you try to take the belt off. You have to repeatedly force the metal hook on the belt loose. We bought a replacement mechanism -used, after the volvo dealership was going to charge over $200 to replace it. I need to know how to go about doing the job. Does the seat need to be removed? What about any electrical connections? Is there a danger of setting off the airbags? My brother is handy at doing car repairs, so he will be doing the work. I appreciate your site and have already found some helpful info about changing out our radiator cap. We are always having to add water to the overflow tank. Thanks
Welcome to the forum.
First, you can buy an OEM (a genuine Volvo) seat belt latch for $70. The latches are reasonable priced (each one is the cost of a tank of gas in my 960). Buy them. Like yesterday.
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/960/Vol ... Parts.html
These retailers are good people and work hard to make things happen right. I bought both of mine (two fronts) from them. They came with instructions and fit perfectly. I also have bought a lot of Saab 900 parts as well. They are not always the cheapest but they offer unparalleled customer service and are a great resource to the Swedish car scene via their FAQ's.
There are somethings that should not be purchased used. Never repair your gas tank. Never buy a used gas tank. Never buy used flexible brake lines. Do not buy a used SRS sytem. Do not buy a used seat belt system. Do not buy used underwear. These can be debated, but I think they are too important to chance.
Old latches are old. Your latch was old. This used latch could have the same (or worse) problems. They may or may not be able to handle the stress of an impact. I wouldn't gamble my family's safety on this. I know that times are hard but a face full of dash is never a good thing.
<rant>
On a rant, for anyone on an interstate or motorway do not come to a dead stop so you can switch over a lane. In Tampa I275 southbound has an exit for I4 westbound. Sometimes people forget that they should be in the exit lane. Life happens, pay more attention to what you are doing. But please go around. It's about a 15 minute detour at the most. I was coasting along at 60 when I saw a driver 200 yards ahead in my lane had decided to come to a dead stop not in the exit lane itself but adjacent to it, with her blinker clicking left so she could enter the I4 exit.
I couldn't move over since traffic was tightly packed at speed. I could stop in plenty of time, I was worried about the others behind me. I flashed my brake lights, honked my horn in a pattern and hoped that she might have the sense to move into the median. Nope. Fortunately I reached her area and the people behind me were paying attention so everything was safe. I honked for posterity's sake (no finger) and she waived.
The point is that a properly functioning seat belt could save a life in your case. You never know when someone (or even yourself) is going to do something stupid.
A Volvo is a safer car, but it cannot save you from a warp speed collision.
And if you are reading this red pick-up truck driver woman, I hope that your dog pees on your couch, your cat throws up on your kitchen table and you run out of gas tomorrow. That was incredibly stupid, and you really shouldn't have a license if you cannot evaluate a death scenario vs a go around.
But thanks for the blinker. It did give me an additional second warning.
</rant>
When I changed my seatbelt latches I removed the center console. The initial removal is obvious. But then you are faced with taking the area where your shins would hit in a crash (or the cosmetic part, however you look at it.) There are a number of tricky torx screws. I can't remember where all of them are, but I grew very frustrated and cracked part of the console center. Take your time. These screws are often hidden under cosmetic plugs that help them blend in very effectively with the fascia.
I can't say about the airbag though. I know that if you disconnect your battery you have to wait a certain period of time before you can safely operate around the SRS area. I would be interested in knowing the answer too. Bill of Durham usually knows these things. What say Ye?
Good Luck,
Bright
First, you can buy an OEM (a genuine Volvo) seat belt latch for $70. The latches are reasonable priced (each one is the cost of a tank of gas in my 960). Buy them. Like yesterday.
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/960/Vol ... Parts.html
These retailers are good people and work hard to make things happen right. I bought both of mine (two fronts) from them. They came with instructions and fit perfectly. I also have bought a lot of Saab 900 parts as well. They are not always the cheapest but they offer unparalleled customer service and are a great resource to the Swedish car scene via their FAQ's.
There are somethings that should not be purchased used. Never repair your gas tank. Never buy a used gas tank. Never buy used flexible brake lines. Do not buy a used SRS sytem. Do not buy a used seat belt system. Do not buy used underwear. These can be debated, but I think they are too important to chance.
Old latches are old. Your latch was old. This used latch could have the same (or worse) problems. They may or may not be able to handle the stress of an impact. I wouldn't gamble my family's safety on this. I know that times are hard but a face full of dash is never a good thing.
<rant>
On a rant, for anyone on an interstate or motorway do not come to a dead stop so you can switch over a lane. In Tampa I275 southbound has an exit for I4 westbound. Sometimes people forget that they should be in the exit lane. Life happens, pay more attention to what you are doing. But please go around. It's about a 15 minute detour at the most. I was coasting along at 60 when I saw a driver 200 yards ahead in my lane had decided to come to a dead stop not in the exit lane itself but adjacent to it, with her blinker clicking left so she could enter the I4 exit.
I couldn't move over since traffic was tightly packed at speed. I could stop in plenty of time, I was worried about the others behind me. I flashed my brake lights, honked my horn in a pattern and hoped that she might have the sense to move into the median. Nope. Fortunately I reached her area and the people behind me were paying attention so everything was safe. I honked for posterity's sake (no finger) and she waived.
The point is that a properly functioning seat belt could save a life in your case. You never know when someone (or even yourself) is going to do something stupid.
A Volvo is a safer car, but it cannot save you from a warp speed collision.
And if you are reading this red pick-up truck driver woman, I hope that your dog pees on your couch, your cat throws up on your kitchen table and you run out of gas tomorrow. That was incredibly stupid, and you really shouldn't have a license if you cannot evaluate a death scenario vs a go around.
But thanks for the blinker. It did give me an additional second warning.
</rant>
When I changed my seatbelt latches I removed the center console. The initial removal is obvious. But then you are faced with taking the area where your shins would hit in a crash (or the cosmetic part, however you look at it.) There are a number of tricky torx screws. I can't remember where all of them are, but I grew very frustrated and cracked part of the console center. Take your time. These screws are often hidden under cosmetic plugs that help them blend in very effectively with the fascia.
I can't say about the airbag though. I know that if you disconnect your battery you have to wait a certain period of time before you can safely operate around the SRS area. I would be interested in knowing the answer too. Bill of Durham usually knows these things. What say Ye?
Good Luck,
Bright
Many Thanks,
Bright
1995 960 Sedan
Bright
1995 960 Sedan
-
billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
suzq4x, welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
bright, your rant is noted and I can sympathize with you. However, you assumed she had a driving licence but did she really have one?
Back to seat belt buckles, latches or whatever you call them. Is the car fitted with mechanical belt tensioners or pyrotechnics? I would think the latter but need to know as different procedures apply.
Bill.
bright, your rant is noted and I can sympathize with you. However, you assumed she had a driving licence but did she really have one?
Back to seat belt buckles, latches or whatever you call them. Is the car fitted with mechanical belt tensioners or pyrotechnics? I would think the latter but need to know as different procedures apply.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Bill, I don't know what you mean by pyrotechnics -sounds like some kind of fireworks to me. The seat belt tensions itself when you pull the belt over from the left and latch it into the buckle. The buckle has a mechanical button you push to release the seatbelt hook. This buckle is what we are replacing. The mechanical latch button doesn't work and won't release the belt. Bright, thanks for the advice and information, but I can't afford to pay the dealership $100 for the part and then another 100 for a job they said would take half an hour to complete. I mean that is some $200 an hour for labor and I thought plumbers were bad. I had the seat belt in my old honda, 1994 accord, to go bad with a tear in the fabric, and the dealership replaced it free of charge. I know I am taking a chance using a used part and putting it in ourselves, that is one reason I am seeking advice here.
No one said to pay the Volvo dealer any money. The link I gave you is exactly what you need. Mine went bad (it literally fell apart.) It is the latch assembly, the part that the buckle clicks into.
Here it is again.
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/960/Vol ... Parts.html
Here is a picture of the part:
Is this the correct part? If so,
Be sure to check for the correct VIN
VIN is the Vehicle Identification number. It can be found on the door pillar. You can find it on your registration, but I always go to the source. The part will be associated with the VIN. Call the guys listed for clarification.
$70 a pop. It's as good as it's gonna get. A ticket for not wearing a belt costs you more and you then have to pay for the seatbelt latch again. You can do it. Follow my directions on removing the center console. Buy the torx bits from Harbor Freight or Wal-Mart.
Safety is not worth a compromise. In my youth I did not complete a safety task in a timely manner, and I paid for it Big Time. I have brain trauma that still affects my short term memory. Put it on credit, drive less for a while, eat spaghetti more often. Make sure you do this.
I am in no way a safety professional nor am I a professional mechanic, but the seat belts do come with instructions. It wasn't hard to do.
I can only think of the panic as fire might spread through a car. Your insurance deductible alone would be more than the buckle itself. That or your child with her teeth hanging out of her mouth, breathing through bubbles of blood and mucus, on the edge of death.
It's a lot of fun to see these things. Spend some time around an ER. It's a lovely place. You'll learn a lot about DUI's and their consquences.
Seatbelts
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-drivi ... atbelt.htm
What bill refers to is a pretensioner. There are two major types of locking systems on a cars seat belt. They engage a pawl like system that prevents the seatbelt from extending. It's much like a pendulum. The pendulum swings a certain amount and then it engages the locking system. Think of all the times you drove around in circles in a car and the seat belt held you in.
The first type is cheaper, and is found in earlier models of American cars.
The second has the standard setup, but is augmented with a device that senses increasing G-forces that are above normal (a wreck in progress) and ignites a small charge (pyrotechnic) to tighten the belt as much as possible before your body starts to receive the full force of an impact.
Many cares have this now a days. But the reality is that many cars have already been whacked and the system has been activated. The seatbelts still work, but now lack the augmentation. That sort of stuff is suppose to be fixed post-wreck but I'm willing to guess that many a car shops charge for these but "forget" to install a new one. No one looks.
Interesting fact for Bill:
The limit for a Drink Driving is 0.08 in the US. That is not a mistype either. 0.02 in the UK. 0.08 in the US.
Here stateside a license is virtually a right. It's very, very hard to live without a car. There is very little public transport. A trip to my doctor takes me 1 hour 45 minutes via Bus. By car, it takes 17 minutes with no speeding. 1/6 of the time. And I really wish I was exaggerating.
I actually didn't know how to drive when I got my license. I knew how to parallel park, three point turn, and drive in a straight line. I had been in rural traffic all of a couple times. Terrifying.
***
Good Luck,
Bright
Here it is again.
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/960/Vol ... Parts.html
Here is a picture of the part:
- SeatBeltBuckle.jpg (2.64 KiB) Viewed 4479 times
Be sure to check for the correct VIN
VIN is the Vehicle Identification number. It can be found on the door pillar. You can find it on your registration, but I always go to the source. The part will be associated with the VIN. Call the guys listed for clarification.
$70 a pop. It's as good as it's gonna get. A ticket for not wearing a belt costs you more and you then have to pay for the seatbelt latch again. You can do it. Follow my directions on removing the center console. Buy the torx bits from Harbor Freight or Wal-Mart.
Safety is not worth a compromise. In my youth I did not complete a safety task in a timely manner, and I paid for it Big Time. I have brain trauma that still affects my short term memory. Put it on credit, drive less for a while, eat spaghetti more often. Make sure you do this.
I am in no way a safety professional nor am I a professional mechanic, but the seat belts do come with instructions. It wasn't hard to do.
I can only think of the panic as fire might spread through a car. Your insurance deductible alone would be more than the buckle itself. That or your child with her teeth hanging out of her mouth, breathing through bubbles of blood and mucus, on the edge of death.
It's a lot of fun to see these things. Spend some time around an ER. It's a lovely place. You'll learn a lot about DUI's and their consquences.
Seatbelts
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-drivi ... atbelt.htm
What bill refers to is a pretensioner. There are two major types of locking systems on a cars seat belt. They engage a pawl like system that prevents the seatbelt from extending. It's much like a pendulum. The pendulum swings a certain amount and then it engages the locking system. Think of all the times you drove around in circles in a car and the seat belt held you in.
The first type is cheaper, and is found in earlier models of American cars.
The second has the standard setup, but is augmented with a device that senses increasing G-forces that are above normal (a wreck in progress) and ignites a small charge (pyrotechnic) to tighten the belt as much as possible before your body starts to receive the full force of an impact.
Many cares have this now a days. But the reality is that many cars have already been whacked and the system has been activated. The seatbelts still work, but now lack the augmentation. That sort of stuff is suppose to be fixed post-wreck but I'm willing to guess that many a car shops charge for these but "forget" to install a new one. No one looks.
Interesting fact for Bill:
The limit for a Drink Driving is 0.08 in the US. That is not a mistype either. 0.02 in the UK. 0.08 in the US.
Here stateside a license is virtually a right. It's very, very hard to live without a car. There is very little public transport. A trip to my doctor takes me 1 hour 45 minutes via Bus. By car, it takes 17 minutes with no speeding. 1/6 of the time. And I really wish I was exaggerating.
I actually didn't know how to drive when I got my license. I knew how to parallel park, three point turn, and drive in a straight line. I had been in rural traffic all of a couple times. Terrifying.
***
Good Luck,
Bright
Many Thanks,
Bright
1995 960 Sedan
Bright
1995 960 Sedan
-
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