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'98 S70 Strut Replacement Woes

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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firekiller75
Posts: 73
Joined: 18 September 2009
Year and Model: 1997 850, 1998 S70
Location: Montgomery, AL

'98 S70 Strut Replacement Woes

Post by firekiller75 »

Went to replace my struts, spring seats, strut mounts yesterday. Ended up unable to because I couldn't loosen the top nut from the strut shaft!

Now keep in mind that I don't live in the rust belt. That being said, the car has 186k miles, and i believe the suspension parts to be original.

I sprayed plenty of WD-40 and let the nut sit a while. It won't budge! I have now pretty much rounded off the top of the strut shaft. I tried it in the car, out of the car with the spring compressed, then in the car once again. It hasn't budged!

Once I rounded off the top of the shaft, I beat a 10mm combination wrench end on it, slipped a cheater bar over the wrench, then turned. It bent then broke my Craftsman combination wrench! I mean the nut is on there!

Not sure what else to try. My thought was to use a reciprocating saw and cut the strut shaft with the spring compressed.

Suggestions?

Thanks, Adam.
'98 S70 n/a with 187k miles, paid $300 for it!
'97 850 n/a wagon, girlfriend's cruiser!

Previous Volvos:
2001 S60 2.4T
1993 240 DL
1986 240 2-door
1984 240 4-speed w/overdrive button

scigarzz
Posts: 52
Joined: 17 March 2009
Year and Model: 1998 s70 glt
Location: orlando fl

Post by scigarzz »

if all else fails, maybe a chisel and a hammer !

firekiller75
Posts: 73
Joined: 18 September 2009
Year and Model: 1997 850, 1998 S70
Location: Montgomery, AL

Post by firekiller75 »

scigarzz wrote:if all else fails, maybe a chisel and a hammer !
You mean to break the nut?
'98 S70 n/a with 187k miles, paid $300 for it!
'97 850 n/a wagon, girlfriend's cruiser!

Previous Volvos:
2001 S60 2.4T
1993 240 DL
1986 240 2-door
1984 240 4-speed w/overdrive button

scigarzz
Posts: 52
Joined: 17 March 2009
Year and Model: 1998 s70 glt
Location: orlando fl

Post by scigarzz »

yes, to break the nut, i've done this a few times. just make sure if you use this method, start a groove on the flat part of the nut, and hit it off the shaft.

jblackburn
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14043
Joined: 8 June 2008
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
Location: Alexandria, VA
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by jblackburn »

PB Blaster, monkey wrench as tight as you can get it on there, and something to push against! You could try hitting it with a sledgehammer a few times to attempt to loosen it...just don't miss!

If not, then I guess you'd have to Sawzall it!
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

firekiller75
Posts: 73
Joined: 18 September 2009
Year and Model: 1997 850, 1998 S70
Location: Montgomery, AL

Post by firekiller75 »

jablackburn wrote:PB Blaster, monkey wrench as tight as you can get it on there, and something to push against! You could try hitting it with a sledgehammer a few times to attempt to loosen it...just don't miss!

If not, then I guess you'd have to Sawzall it!
I saw reference to the monkey wrench in a how-to I read. I guess I am confused about the monkey wrench. I'm just using a 21mm wrench on the nut. Where are you folks putting the monkey wrench?
'98 S70 n/a with 187k miles, paid $300 for it!
'97 850 n/a wagon, girlfriend's cruiser!

Previous Volvos:
2001 S60 2.4T
1993 240 DL
1986 240 2-door
1984 240 4-speed w/overdrive button

Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14798
Joined: 7 September 2006
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Post by Ozark Lee »

I use a pipe wrench and a cheater pipe to get the cross shaped nut loose but you are not there yet.

I have used a nut cracker on similar problems. I'm not sure how well a sawzall will work, I think the strut shaft is case hardened and it will likely just shine the shaft as it eats the teeth off of the blade.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

firekiller75
Posts: 73
Joined: 18 September 2009
Year and Model: 1997 850, 1998 S70
Location: Montgomery, AL

Post by firekiller75 »

Ozark Lee wrote:I use a pipe wrench and a cheater pipe to get the cross shaped nut loose but you are not there yet.

I have used a nut cracker on similar problems. I'm not sure how well a sawzall will work, I think the strut shaft is case hardened and it will likely just shine the shaft as it eats the teeth off of the blade.

...Lee
Lee, gotcha, thanks. Definitely clears things up. Forgot about a nut cracker, think I've used those before with success. I'll pick one up on the way home today. Thanks!
'98 S70 n/a with 187k miles, paid $300 for it!
'97 850 n/a wagon, girlfriend's cruiser!

Previous Volvos:
2001 S60 2.4T
1993 240 DL
1986 240 2-door
1984 240 4-speed w/overdrive button

firekiller75
Posts: 73
Joined: 18 September 2009
Year and Model: 1997 850, 1998 S70
Location: Montgomery, AL

Post by firekiller75 »

Man that strut was the worst ever!

Pulled the strut back out, compressed the spring, tried again for fun, no joy. Worked on the nut with a Craftsman nut cracker, broke it (OMG!), which is when I realized the nut had a shoulder on it!

SOOO... Took a hack saw to the nut, just about the shoulder, and cut it/shaft off. Then put the remainder on an angle grinder for a bit and presto, it was gone! The cross-shaped nut was actually just finger tight (weird!).

After all that, the darn spring seat wasn't even broken or worn looking! Not sure how that could be after 182k miles! In fact, I saw no wear/tear on the seat or mount other than the fact that the entire assembly would spin pretty freely when still mounted in the car.

Short story long, the assembly has been replaced and my clunking is completely gone! At least all my effort did not go unrewarded!
'98 S70 n/a with 187k miles, paid $300 for it!
'97 850 n/a wagon, girlfriend's cruiser!

Previous Volvos:
2001 S60 2.4T
1993 240 DL
1986 240 2-door
1984 240 4-speed w/overdrive button

dbo550
Posts: 67
Joined: 1 August 2009
Year and Model: 95 T5-R, 98 V70
Location: LouKy

Post by dbo550 »

Where did you order your parts from? How much did the parts cost? glad you finally succeeded.

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