UK 97 V70 T5
Is it possible to change the pinion seals with the rack in situ?
Steering rack pinion seal
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Ozark Lee
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Unfortunately the rack needs to come out to change the seals. There is a terrific writeup here:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/power_steering.pdf
If it isn't leaking badly I have actually fixed mine with automatic transmission stop leak fluid. The stuff that worked for me was Valvoline Max Life Automatic Transmission Stop Leak.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... op-leak/38
I sucked the old fluid out of the reservoir, put the replacement fluid in and ran the steering from stop to stop a few time and then repeated the process. While I didn't think it would work I tried it anyway and the rack hasn't leaked a drop since and that was about 2 years ago.
...Lee
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/power_steering.pdf
If it isn't leaking badly I have actually fixed mine with automatic transmission stop leak fluid. The stuff that worked for me was Valvoline Max Life Automatic Transmission Stop Leak.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... op-leak/38
I sucked the old fluid out of the reservoir, put the replacement fluid in and ran the steering from stop to stop a few time and then repeated the process. While I didn't think it would work I tried it anyway and the rack hasn't leaked a drop since and that was about 2 years ago.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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Volvofan94
- Posts: 168
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- Year and Model: 2002 Volvo S60 AWD
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I'm sorry, I know this thread is kind of an older one, but how has the Automatic Transmission Fluid fix worked out for anyone with this problem?
I replaced both front sway bar links and noticed the subframe on near the passenger side steering was covered in oil again after I finished with my engine overhaul this year. Took extra time to clean up the subframe while the engine/trans were out of the car. Puzzled by where the leak was from, I grabbed my steering boot and noticed fluid was leaking out of the end of the boot. I wouldn't say the fluid was gushing out, but definitely at a steady dripping pace for about a minute. In this case, would it be better to replace the whole steering rack, try to replace the seals, or start off with the Automatic Transmission Fluid leak stop first?
If I did the ATF leak stop would that hurt other parts of the power steering system in the future?
Thank you for your assistance!
I replaced both front sway bar links and noticed the subframe on near the passenger side steering was covered in oil again after I finished with my engine overhaul this year. Took extra time to clean up the subframe while the engine/trans were out of the car. Puzzled by where the leak was from, I grabbed my steering boot and noticed fluid was leaking out of the end of the boot. I wouldn't say the fluid was gushing out, but definitely at a steady dripping pace for about a minute. In this case, would it be better to replace the whole steering rack, try to replace the seals, or start off with the Automatic Transmission Fluid leak stop first?
If I did the ATF leak stop would that hurt other parts of the power steering system in the future?
Thank you for your assistance!
2002 Volvo S60 AWD - 2.4L I5, 167k miles - Daily Driver
1994 Volvo 850 - 2.3L I5, 160k miles. - SOLD
1994 Volvo 850 - 2.4L I5, 174k miles. - SOLD
1994 Volvo 850 - 2.3L I5, 160k miles. - SOLD
1994 Volvo 850 - 2.4L I5, 174k miles. - SOLD
- erikv11
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My advice is to start with the ATF stop leak stuff that Lee mentioned. Many people have had success with it, that is the *only* place on the car I would feel comfortable adding a stop leak product. If that doesn't help, then the next step is to replace the rack, a rebuilt one would be the way to go. I have only done that job with the engine out of the car, I wouldn't want to do it with the engine in.
There may be a lot of fluid in the boot now but how quickly is it leaking? If the rate is slow then you may want to just live with it, but keep a close eye on it to see if it gets worse. Maybe the stop leak will at least slow it down.
There may be a lot of fluid in the boot now but how quickly is it leaking? If the rate is slow then you may want to just live with it, but keep a close eye on it to see if it gets worse. Maybe the stop leak will at least slow it down.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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Volvofan94
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I will definitely give the stop leak a try. Hopefully it will fix the leak!
I don't think my car has a fast leak either. Been driving the car for a couple days now and the level hasn't dropped very far at all. I think I also made a mistake when I filled up the power steering fluid when the engine was Hot. Filled it up to the H mark and now it won't go down to C when the engine is cold. It stays just below the H mark. Will be removing the old fluid this weekend and refill with ATF stop leak.
Thank you everyone for your help!
I don't think my car has a fast leak either. Been driving the car for a couple days now and the level hasn't dropped very far at all. I think I also made a mistake when I filled up the power steering fluid when the engine was Hot. Filled it up to the H mark and now it won't go down to C when the engine is cold. It stays just below the H mark. Will be removing the old fluid this weekend and refill with ATF stop leak.
Thank you everyone for your help!
2002 Volvo S60 AWD - 2.4L I5, 167k miles - Daily Driver
1994 Volvo 850 - 2.3L I5, 160k miles. - SOLD
1994 Volvo 850 - 2.4L I5, 174k miles. - SOLD
1994 Volvo 850 - 2.3L I5, 160k miles. - SOLD
1994 Volvo 850 - 2.4L I5, 174k miles. - SOLD
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cn90
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I agree with Lee that the Steering Rack needs to come out for a proper repair.Pipes wrote:UK 97 V70 T5
Is it possible to change the pinion seals with the rack in situ?
Below are some very nice info on Steering Rack, worth a read.
But see the link at the bottom of my post!
The bottom line seems to be TRW, SMI or Volvo rack only.No aftermarket!
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... ring-racks
http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/74z7s-s ... -rack.html
Rebuild kit:
http://www.pskits.com/catalog/rackvolvo-c-21_60.html
DIY:
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... rvice.html
And apparently, you can renew the seals without removing the steering rack from the car!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-850-s70-2 ... 0459551828
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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gregandterra
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 27 November 2011
- Year and Model: 1999 V70 XC
- Location: Sylvania, Ohio
Tried the quick fix with stop leak on my 99 V70Xc, ended up dumping the whole contents on the ground a week later. Time to pull the rack and repair.
Followed the great tutorial found at VolvoSpeed, but discovered a few tricks.
1. With the jack supporting the transmission instead of the rear of the engine support, you can pry the support down a few extra inches when pulling out the rack.
2. After 15 minutes of struggling with the rack, said enough and pulled out the front sway bar. Took 15 minutes to release the bolts, and with it removed was able to easily slide the rack out where before the rear drive shaft and turbo down pipe we're interfering.
3. With all the open space, now was the time to replace the leaky turbo oil drain line that is next to impossible to reach with the rack in place.
I still have to renew the seals/o-rings and re-install, will post the results when done.
Followed the great tutorial found at VolvoSpeed, but discovered a few tricks.
1. With the jack supporting the transmission instead of the rear of the engine support, you can pry the support down a few extra inches when pulling out the rack.
2. After 15 minutes of struggling with the rack, said enough and pulled out the front sway bar. Took 15 minutes to release the bolts, and with it removed was able to easily slide the rack out where before the rear drive shaft and turbo down pipe we're interfering.
3. With all the open space, now was the time to replace the leaky turbo oil drain line that is next to impossible to reach with the rack in place.
I still have to renew the seals/o-rings and re-install, will post the results when done.
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