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S60 Clunk on take off.

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
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Frank Brennan
Posts: 2
Joined: 7 April 2010
Year and Model: s60 2001
Location: UK

S60 Clunk on take off.

Post by Frank Brennan »

Hi
Can anyone help? I have a heavy clunk when I pull away in my 2001 Petrol 2 wheel drive S60. It has done 70K and I have recently replaced the suspension tops (both rubber bushes were shot) and I have also replaced the top engine mount but I still have the clunk when pulling off, the faster I pull away the harder the clunk.
When I changed the top engine mount I noticed that the cross bar that it mounts to swivels quite a lot at both ends where it connects to the inner wings, is this normal? or do the crossbar bushes need replacing.
Thanks for your help
Frank

FCPEURO
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Year and Model: 2006 XC90 V8
Location: Milford, CT
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Post by FCPEURO »

Did you take a look at your control arms/ball joints? It sounds like the strut towers are still moving around when you are driving.

wolfspiritky
Posts: 268
Joined: 11 February 2008
Year and Model:
Location: Louisville, KY.

Post by wolfspiritky »

Does it also do it on slightly hard or hard breaking?

May need to install O-ring kit to the sub-frame mounts.
This solved the "Clunking" issue I had (on take off and breaking) on my 2000 S80 T6.
00 S80 T6
97 850R
95 850 GLT
94 850 GLT-Totaled!

537playing
Posts: 261
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Year and Model: 2005 S60
Location: New York
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Post by 537playing »

How about inner and outer tie rods?

Frank Brennan
Posts: 2
Joined: 7 April 2010
Year and Model: s60 2001
Location: UK

Post by Frank Brennan »

Thanks for all the advice, I will investigate and let you know what I find.
Frank

Joe Hurless
Posts: 55
Joined: 17 February 2010
Year and Model: e36 328is
Location: Boise, ID

Post by Joe Hurless »

I just saw something like this the other day. What happened was the lower right engine mount below the timing cover was toast and, due to it being torn out, had put extra strain on the upper engine mount (which totally ruined it). The engine was literally jumping out of the car. So my advice would be to get the car on a lift and inspect all of your engine mounts.

JRL
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Post by JRL »

That would be the FRONT engine mount (right side of the car)

Does your transmission have the latest software?
You could be running the dreaded original software with the stop neutral feature still enabled.
If so, GET THE LATEST TRANSMISSION SOFTWARE ASAP or you will destroy your transmission (if it hasn't been already)
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

Joe Hurless
Posts: 55
Joined: 17 February 2010
Year and Model: e36 328is
Location: Boise, ID

Post by Joe Hurless »

JRL wrote:That would be the FRONT engine mount (right side of the car)
Wow... ok. It seems I must apologize for my lack of perfect terminology...

In any case, the mount in question is below the serp belt and timing cover on the right side frame. Often, Seal leaks, water pump leaks, and power steering leaks can cause this mount to become punky and break. I would put the car on a lift and use a jack to lift the engine and see if it separates from the mount.

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