While replacing a leaking crank seal it looks like a main bearing came out too. It seems the bearing is what pushed out the seal now making it leak. What kind of trouble am i in? What needs to be done, do i need to drop oil pan and replace, or can it be done through crank seal opening? (stupid question im sure!).
ill post pic of it.
240 Front Crank Seal Replacement
-
donnie_diamond
- Posts: 32
- Joined: 21 February 2010
- Year and Model: 240- 1989, 1991
- Location: Hawaii
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Sorry,
Time to drop the pan and see how bad it is.
Wait for a 240 guru to chime in as I haven't rebuilt a 240 motor in over 15 years.
You might as well put a new set of bearings in while you have the pan dropped. The one shown is in poor shape.
Did you have an oil pump failure? If so you may be better off with a used engine.
Time to drop the pan and see how bad it is.
Wait for a 240 guru to chime in as I haven't rebuilt a 240 motor in over 15 years.
You might as well put a new set of bearings in while you have the pan dropped. The one shown is in poor shape.
Did you have an oil pump failure? If so you may be better off with a used engine.
Retired
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Donnie,
Take a look at part 2 and the wear pattern on the bearing. Perhaps the cap just came loose and it pushed the bearing half out over time. The bearing is worn at an angle as if it was pushed out slowly. I don;t see any bluing so maybe your oil system is ok and you can get away with bearing /bearings
Take a look at part 2 and the wear pattern on the bearing. Perhaps the cap just came loose and it pushed the bearing half out over time. The bearing is worn at an angle as if it was pushed out slowly. I don;t see any bluing so maybe your oil system is ok and you can get away with bearing /bearings
- Attachments
-
1989 240 B230F motor.pdf- (103.29 KiB) Downloaded 458 times
Retired
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
You should inspect the crank through the front opening and see if damaged. If its ok then new bearings and perhaps a part #2 and new bolts will get you wheeling again. Either way the oil pan is coming off.
Retired
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Donnie,
Is this a sign -I think you have to put the turbo motor and equipment in now. Is there a salvage 740/940 turbo car you can get a hold of cheap.
Is this a sign -I think you have to put the turbo motor and equipment in now. Is there a salvage 740/940 turbo car you can get a hold of cheap.
Retired
-
donnie_diamond
- Posts: 32
- Joined: 21 February 2010
- Year and Model: 240- 1989, 1991
- Location: Hawaii
To be honest, the seal was leaking for about 6 weeks before i got around to ordering new one. It started as a real bad leak, then within a day it was limited to only a few drops per drive, so i left it. I had the oil light going on and off like crazy and replaced flame trap, oil pressure sender with no help, still flickers like a strobe, then goes out , then flickers, no pattern. It looks as if the bearing caused the seal to get pushed out, the timing belt gear flange held it just barely. The bearing was wedged against crank funny and wore a grove from it being there so long. It has no taper to it, and there are a few bad spots, but look as though it got tossed a bit before getting lodged where it did.
I guess my second question would be if i just put a new oil seal in, pretend it never happened, what happens? If i have to pull the motor, im not putting the same back in. So unless someone tells me its going to blow up and shoot pulleys and pistons at a bus full of puppies and kittens killing them all, i think i might have to test ans see how long i can go on 4 main, not 5?
I guess my second question would be if i just put a new oil seal in, pretend it never happened, what happens? If i have to pull the motor, im not putting the same back in. So unless someone tells me its going to blow up and shoot pulleys and pistons at a bus full of puppies and kittens killing them all, i think i might have to test ans see how long i can go on 4 main, not 5?
-
donnie_diamond
- Posts: 32
- Joined: 21 February 2010
- Year and Model: 240- 1989, 1991
- Location: Hawaii
Oh, oil system works fine, pressure is good. I have two 240's too, this is not the one i want to drop a turbo in, although now i might just have to!
-
donnie_diamond
- Posts: 32
- Joined: 21 February 2010
- Year and Model: 240- 1989, 1991
- Location: Hawaii
UPDATE!
well after much thought, and a little elbow grease, i have decided to pretend it never happened. I replaced the crank seal, timing belt and a few other maintenance parts and will now just wait. The oil pressure lamp does the flicker thing, likely caused by the missing bearing. I figure with a 5 main setup, and it being the front, only hard acceleration or 'ragging out' will do the likely outcome, which is bend the crank. My theory is that with the front crank pulley being held in check with 3 drive belts, i might get by for a few miles before something catastrophic happens. Unfortunately the odo is not working, so an accurate mileage will not be possible. Maybe soon i will get a gear from ipd because if this goes more than 6 months I'll kick myself for not knowing. Took it for a test today, did about 30 miles, purrs like a kitten and runs like she was new. Only time will tell...
well after much thought, and a little elbow grease, i have decided to pretend it never happened. I replaced the crank seal, timing belt and a few other maintenance parts and will now just wait. The oil pressure lamp does the flicker thing, likely caused by the missing bearing. I figure with a 5 main setup, and it being the front, only hard acceleration or 'ragging out' will do the likely outcome, which is bend the crank. My theory is that with the front crank pulley being held in check with 3 drive belts, i might get by for a few miles before something catastrophic happens. Unfortunately the odo is not working, so an accurate mileage will not be possible. Maybe soon i will get a gear from ipd because if this goes more than 6 months I'll kick myself for not knowing. Took it for a test today, did about 30 miles, purrs like a kitten and runs like she was new. Only time will tell...
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Thank you for the update.
Fingers and everything else crossed for success!
Bill.
Fingers and everything else crossed for success!
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Donnie,
Why not put a lower bearing half in there. You will get much more time out of it that way. If the oil presure is low (missing bearing)you will kill the whole motor. With a lower bearing half you will just scuff it up a bit.
Why not put a lower bearing half in there. You will get much more time out of it that way. If the oil presure is low (missing bearing)you will kill the whole motor. With a lower bearing half you will just scuff it up a bit.
Retired
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






