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850 Control arm fiasco...little help please...

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » 850 Control Arm Fiasco... Replacement Methods and Parts
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powersct
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Volvo Repair Database 850 Control arm fiasco...little help please...

Post by powersct »

Hi all,

Third day of major work on my wife's '96 850 (197K). Got through timing belt, water pump, complete AC overhaul (it's cold!), and finally went after the control arms because it was eating tires. I thought I saved the easy one for last- no such luck.

Started on the right one and ran into a problem- got the bushing bolts out no problem then went at the bolt that holds the knuckle/ball joint. The nut loosened off bolt ok so I backed off the nut to the end and gave it a whack with the hammer thinking it would just come out the other side so that I could spread the knuckle and remove the rest of the control arm assy.it will not move - then tried to loosen the bolt side- still will not move. So far have broken two Craftsman 13mm sockets- needless to say the bolt is destroyed on both ends now and bent- these will be cut/drilled out tomorrow...the control arm is off as the bottom half of the ball joint is now out of the arm assy.

My question is this- is the male side of this bolt threaded into the knuckle?? (and then the nut closes it around the ball joint?) or should it just slide out. Secondly, what are the specs for this bolt 'cuz this one (and I suspect the left) are done.

Thanks in advance.

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Have a look at this:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/cv_boot.html

The bolt is not threaded, it simply slides in and out.
The bolt is simply rusted in.

Re bolt spec; don't even think about hardware store bolt and nut, it is not strong enough to handle this job. Get this from dealer. You should have obtained new bolt and nut prior to doing this job.

Best is to:
- Get a propane torch that plumber uses to solder the plumbing and heat the knuckle for about 30 seconds to 60 seconds just to expand it.

- Another option is to use a ball joint separator to remove the bolt:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarte ... 99849.html

Image

Image
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

powersct
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Post by powersct »

Appreciate the great stuff you posted- CV's will be on the list sooner or later. That HF separator is cute but I would have to be able to move the bolt to get it underneath. Have an old school tie rod separator (that's how I broke the ball joint out of the control arm) it gave way before the knuckle would come out. Absolutely hate going near a Volvo dealer for any reason...looked at eeuro and FCP and neither list this nut/bolt...might have to give in unless somebody knows where else to get them- we live pretty far out and do almost everything by UPS, although eeuro is 7-8 miles and FCP about 45 minutes away- thanks.

Meanstreets
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Post by Meanstreets »

I replaced the control arm about a month ago. Like you said, it was a chore to get the bolt out. Lots of WD-40 and time to sit. Then tapped it out with a hammer before I could finally get the ball joint free.

FlyingVolvo
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Post by FlyingVolvo »

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but was wondering if someone could explain the symptoms of failing control arms. Is there a way to physically check it? What sort of while-driving symptoms would you encounter?
2000 V70XC - 340,000 miles
Hilton Tune, 16T Turbo, Mototec 3" downpipe, Blue injectors, IPD Short Ram Filter, Snabb Intake Piping & RIP kit, do88 Intercooler, TME Dual Exhaust, HID Projectors, R Panels, do88 Silicone Hoses

2023 V60 T8 PE

powersct
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Post by powersct »

Jack it up and try to move the tire (hard)- if it moves side to side they are shot. I noticed mine when tightening lug nuts and the whole thing moved side to side...not to mention the inside wear to the tires.

JDS60R
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Post by JDS60R »

Can you drill out the bolt from the side with the bolt head. Once the head is seperated from the rest of the bolt you can drive it out with a punch and hammer.

Or just use the old orange wrench and heat up the nut until it turns off. Keep in mind that if someone used red loctite it will not let go until 600 degrees. You can get that with a heat gun but a torch is faster.
Retired

powersct
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Post by powersct »

We're going to find out tomorrow...torch is full and ready...it's coming out one way or another :twisted:

More concerned with finding the bolts. Not gonna happen on Sunday...

powersct
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Post by powersct »

Since I didn't have the parts I took a break yesterday. So, this morning called every Volvo dealer in CT & MA- everyone has the nut but not the bolt- UGH. As CN90 said, GET THESE BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS FIX! Or you will have a crippled car on your lift like me...P/N's Nut- 987891 Bolt- 9881185. Might as well go to the beach today.

vjaneczko
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Post by vjaneczko »

Are you talking about the bolts in this kit?

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/181
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams

1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
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