Stalls w/ Low Voltage Message

Post by **velorider** » 10 Sep 2010, 17:40

My wife called me today while driving to tell me the car had a message: "Low Voltage". Now when the car starts, it's very slow to engage. Once running the car will stall if I don't keep the rpm's high. When she called I figured bad alternator. Normally you can test the alternator with a voltage meter, but the alternator is tucked under the power steering pump, so I can't get to the leads. Before I rip out and replacing the alternator I figured I asked for some advice.

To me the symptom of the car stalling without reviving the rpm's and a previous message of "Low Voltage" sound like an alternator, anybody have a guess.

2002 S60
102K miles

Thanks
John

Post by **velorider** » 12 Sep 2010, 18:57

I went ahead and pulled the alternator, not to difficult. A lot of other stuff needs to be removed to pull the alternator out. Couple things took some figuring out so I'll post some pictures of the install in reverse to help the next guy.

Now that the alternators out I'm about of order a replacement, the question is which one. PartGeeks lists a 120amp w/ freewheel pulley, 120amp w/o freewheel pulley, a 140amp, and a 160amp all for s60 2002. SwedishAutoParts list a 120amp w/ freewheel pulley and a 120amp w/o freewheel pulley. On the back of the alternator it say 14V 75-140A.

I can't find anything that looks like the mfr part numbers listed on PartGeeks or SwedishAutoParts. The Volvo number looks like it might be 8622786.

PartGeeks
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2002/volvo/s60/engine_electrical/alternator.html

SwedishAutoParts
www.swedishautoparts.com/S60/volvo-s60-alternators-and-charging-system.html

Anyone know which is the correct alternator for a 2002 S60 2.4T?

Any thoughts about alternator versus regulator. Looks like the regulator can be replaced for less then $80 versus the $200 for the alternator and regulator.

jda2000 · Post by **jda2000** » 13 Sep 2010, 07:11

Since you have the alternator out already, then replace the whole unit, not just the regulator. Sometimes the low voltage reading is from a bad battery.

For the future, you can test the alternator with a volt meter at the battery, by measuring the voltage with car off should read about 12V, and with the car on should read about 14V, which indicates the alternator is charging the battery.

Post by **velorider** » 16 Sep 2010, 23:08

Installed the alternator today and it fixed the problem. Now that the car idles I was able to check voltage at the battery: 13.9v-14.1v.

Unfortunately I didn't get pictures taking during the install, sorry guys. But don't be intimidated it only requires a few extra items to be removed to make room to get the alternator out.