Coolant Leak- right side of engine?

davis911s · Post by **davis911s** » 18 Oct 2010, 21:10

I bought a 98 V70 a few weeks ago, and have slowly been fixing the issues. Next is, I have a coolant leak. It seems to be coming from the right side of the engine area. I did not have a leak until I fixed my heater core and topped up the fluid. After a drive the coolant leaked out. It ran out by the right front tire. (level driveway) I assumed it was because the coolant had been low since I bought the car and when I topped it up it overflowed out the tank or from a crack somewhere in the tank? The firewall and area under the tank is DRY co it has to be coming from lower down.

The "cold" level of the coolant is 1/2 way between MIN and the bottom of the reservoir. If I fill it any higher than that it leaks when the engine heats up. The coolant light comes on for a few seconds when it is cold but quickly goes out.

I am just wondering if there are any common spots to start looking.

Thanks

Post by **jblackburn** » 18 Oct 2010, 21:24

Yes - start looking at the tank itself. They commonly crack and need to be replaced. Also, if you have a grey cap (which also crack and start to leak) on the expansion tank, get one of the new-style green ones.

davis911s · Post by **davis911s** » 18 Oct 2010, 22:36

If it were the tank itself wouldn't the leak be visible up higher? The top part of the engine compartment is dry, including the inner fender.

I have a green cap

Thanks

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 19 Oct 2010, 13:47

Pull off the timing belt cover and take a look at the water pump. If it is leaking is should be replaced immediately.

...Lee

Post by **vjaneczko** » 19 Oct 2010, 15:28

The tank has a hose connected to the bottom of it, so it's possible that there's a small crack that you can't see. When the engine warms-up, maybe the pressure causes a small dribble that runs down that 'hidden' hose.

But yeah, follow Lee's advice (always, Always, ALWAYS follow Lee's advice - and humbly bow to his knowledge!!

) and check your pump.

davis911s · Post by **davis911s** » 22 Oct 2010, 12:04

Thanks guys

It sure looks like the leak is coming from the area of the water pump. But I can not get the cover off. I removed the 12mm bolt on front of the cover. Where is the other bolt?? I would like to take the cover off and take a look. The tank itself is good I think.

Thanks

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 22 Oct 2010, 12:13

It's been a while since I removed mine but there may be a tab holding it on the back side of the engine. See if Lee's pictures are of any help at this link:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=19831

Post by **thecheat** » 22 Oct 2010, 12:20

Mine lifted straight up without much resistance. When you're in there do the timing belt idler, tensioner, and belt itself unless you know they have been done with the last belt.

Btw, the bolts for the water pump suck to remove.

davis911s · Post by **davis911s** » 22 Oct 2010, 12:27

Thanks guys I saw that tab and pulled a bit, but I do not want to break it. I was thinking there was a second bolt somewhere. Does it just lift straight up or does it need to get pushed towards the wheel then up? The pictures did not show a second bolt.

I will replace the belt too, wasn't thinking of replacing tensioner. Is that recomended too?

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 22 Oct 2010, 13:20

Depends on how many miles you have on the car and whether you can verify when the individual timing components were last changed.

Most folks agree that you should change the tensioner and the idler pulley when you change the belt. A new belt doesn't help much if the other components fail and they sometimes do. Opinions vary on when to change the water pump. My opinion is every third Timing Belt change on the 94-98 MYs for the water pump (first time would be at 210K) or every second Timing Belt on 99+ (again 210K the first time). If you take it to a Volvo dealer for a Timing Belt, they will automatically change everything including the water pump (and charge you somewhere around $900-$1000!).

If you do this yourself, stay away from Scan Tech parts. Consensus is they are cheaply made and if they fail you'll be spending a lot more on engine reqbuilding.

I have personally had good experience with Hepu water pumps in both my S70 and Saab 9-5.

Of course, you will likely be changing the water pump due to failure and will have to take the timing belt off anyway - so it's a good time to change the belt and pulley and tensioner while you're at it unless you know they were already changed recently.