Repair or Part Out?

Maasai · Post by **Maasai** » 05 Dec 2010, 15:38

just bought a 1998 V70 GLT (Turbo) 322,000 miles from a charity. The thing is with these miles, is it worth it to revive this beast or count my loses and part the car out. was told it only needed a new catalytic converter and oxygen sensors. ( should have asked this before I spent $800-car, +$100-seal kit, +$107-pcv kit which needed replacing).
All responses highly appreciated.

Post by **jblackburn** » 05 Dec 2010, 15:42

You might have an even easier, cheaper fix on your hands.

What codes do you have? Post them up and someone might have a better answer for you, but I will say that about 90% of the time O2/cat related codes are due to a vacuum leak somewhere in the engine bay. Check all vacuum lines you can see; a can of carb cleaner or propane torch (unlit of course) sprayed around the lines with the engine running will help you find a leak.

Then see how many more miles you can get on that thing, that's impressive!

Maasai · Post by **Maasai** » 07 Dec 2010, 08:53

Ok will have to trust you on this one. Got the PCV kit that will install today. Got some exhaust leaks that will weld today too.
Can the O2 sensors be cleaned somehow?

Post by **jblackburn** » 07 Dec 2010, 09:29

The O2 sensors really can't be cleaned, and their sensitivity wears out over time anyway. I replaced my front one a few months ago at 170,000 miles or something like that just because I was getting poor gas mileage.

This would be the order in which I go about things:
1) Fix the exhaust leaks. They will cause false readings to the O2 sensors.
2) Check for vacuum leaks
3) Replace the O2 sensors if no leaks are found.
4) If you still get a cat efficiency code, then and onlythen should you go about replacing the cat. In some cases, especially with a car that "old" anyway, it might be better to just buy a converter from a junkyard and weld it in.

Maasai · Post by **Maasai** » 07 Dec 2010, 15:00

jablackburn wrote:The O2 sensors really can't be cleaned, and their sensitivity wears out over time anyway. I replaced my front one a few months ago at 170,000 miles or something like that just because I was getting poor gas mileage.

This would be the order in which I go about things:
1) Fix the exhaust leaks. They will cause false readings to the O2 sensors.
2) Check for vacuum leaks
3) Replace the O2 sensors if no leaks are found.
4) If you still get a cat efficiency code, then and onlythen should you go about replacing the cat. In some cases, especially with a car that "old" anyway, it might be better to just buy a converter from a junkyard and weld it in.

Did you know that junkyards don't sell cat converters? Here in MD it's illegal.
But will go with the steps you suggested.

Post by **jblackburn** » 07 Dec 2010, 15:16

Didn't know that. We picked one up back in NC for a Saab many years ago for $40. Great deal.

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 07 Dec 2010, 20:57

I agree with everyone else on this one. For 800 bucks, you don't have much to loose and getting her running should not be so bad.

Maasai · Post by **Maasai** » 15 Dec 2010, 22:21

jablackburn wrote:The O2 sensors really can't be cleaned, and their sensitivity wears out over time anyway. I replaced my front one a few months ago at 170,000 miles or something like that just because I was getting poor gas mileage.

This would be the order in which I go about things:
1) Fix the exhaust leaks. They will cause false readings to the O2 sensors.
2) Check for vacuum leaks
3) Replace the O2 sensors if no leaks are found.
4) If you still get a cat efficiency code, then and onlythen should you go about replacing the cat. In some cases, especially with a car that "old" anyway, it might be better to just buy a converter from a junkyard and weld it in.

Finally got everything back together. oil trap, pcv e.t.c. Now I'm getting this code P0103. Checked all my vacuum lines and they seem fine. In addition The issue now is that, after I turn the engine off after running, it will crank but not run and smells like it has an over-flow ( which is strange for an injector vehicle). I disconnected the injector terminals and it starts right up and runs of course before running out of gas then stops. When I connect the injectors back, wont run. Had to get it towed to my brother house so that I can get out of the cold. What Now?

Post by **jblackburn** » 15 Dec 2010, 23:06

That signal is for the mass airflow sensor, which I doubt is bad now.

Instead, it sounds like you have a big air leak. The car is dumping too much gas into the cylinders because it thinks it is running lean (when, in reality, it is not). On the 7th, bottom right screw of the intake manifold is a small bracket for where the line wraps around the corner. Is this trapped in between the gasket and manifold?

The car might run without the MAF plugged in, and then you can check further for leaks with the running engine not stalling out on you.

Maasai · Post by **Maasai** » 16 Dec 2010, 07:16

will check this out later today.Hopefully the snow won't be here by then. Thanx.