cold start problem (1994 850 turbo)

Hawaiianfeet · Post by **Hawaiianfeet** » 13 Dec 2010, 19:30

Hi, my name is Phil. I just bought a 1994 volvo 850 turbo sedan 2 days ago.

Drove the car home (about 40 miles) and the car drove PERFECT.

Next morning, it took several tries before I could get the car to start and run. The temperature outdoors now is high 20's-low 30 degrees in NC.

Today, I could not get the car to start at all. What's happening is when I turn the ignition key to start the engine, the engine starts, revs for 1-2 seconds then dies out. Inadvertently, between trying to start it, the engine will just crank.

Coming back to it later on today, I managed to get some starter fluid, opened the air filter box and sprayed starter fluid directly into intake where map sensor is. Tried to start it and it started and ran for a few more seconds. Repeated the process several times, and managed to get it to run long enough to get out of the car, under the hood and spray starter fluid in small bursts in same area to keep engine running. Once I did this, I grabbed the accelorator by hand and manually throttled just enough to keep the engine running without making it die out, which it would have done if I overthrottled it.

Once the car's been running for 5-10 minutes, everything works great, and this problem dissappears. But it's winter and there's many more cold mornings ahead and I can't do this every day.

Things I've done so far:
-Listened for fuel pump hum sound, and find that when I first turn the ignition, I can hear the pump turn on, then turn off.
-I pressed the fuel rail pressure release check valve and found that there is not a lot of pressure, ie. not a lot of fuel comes out (but some does come out).
-Air filter is new.
- To the best of my knowledge, there are no ripped vacuum lines.

Things I have not done but have in mind:
-Check the spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor, fuel pump relay, fuel pump, fuel filter, code errors, and fuel check valve.

This is my second Volvo, and I love these cars. I'm impressed with the engineering, but distressed that my "new" car runs so well but is having a rocky start, and part of me is wondering if I should just cut my losses and try to get rid of it before spending too much time and money on parts? She has 180K miles, but she has lots of power, shifts well, and should have lots more life in her. The car drives like a dream, and is comfortable as heck.

Thanks a million, I appreciate any and all info on this subject. Pictures, diagrams, videos, etc.
Have a very nice day!

Post by **jblackburn** » 13 Dec 2010, 22:10

One problem that gave me hard cold starting issues was the coolant temperature sensor, and that does sound to me like what you are having an issue with since it runs and starts fine when warm.

Especially now that it's cold, do you notice the temperature needle warm quickly up to 1/2 way and stay there? Once the engine warms up, the needle should not come back down again while you are driving. If that happens, you will need a new thermostat and coolant temperature sensor. Matt has a write-up in the repair database for replacing the thermostat; it is really very simple once you get the bolts out.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Dec 2010, 01:26

Your observations on fuel pressure at the schrader valve may be telling. Remove relay number 103 and use a wire or even a paper clip to jumper between the socket positions associated with pins 15 and 87 on the relay and see what happens. The relay is located under the fuse box cover but you need to remove the cover to get to it.

: DSC02112.JPG (216.63 KiB) Viewed 2598 times

The fuel pump relay gets real wonky with temperature changes as it tries to die.

...Lee

Hawaiianfeet · Post by **Hawaiianfeet** » 15 Dec 2010, 16:44

Okay thanks. I will try both ideas.

Hawaiianfeet · Post by **Hawaiianfeet** » 16 Dec 2010, 09:27

Ozark Lee thank you. You were right. The FPR was the problem.

I pulled the fuel line off coming out the regulator. Put a towel under so all the fuel would get soaked up. Turned the key to Acc or the second position to test FP. Fuel shot out for a second and stopped. Did what you said and jumped FPR. Tested it again. This time fuel just continously flows out. So I knew right then you were right and I would need to track down a FPR.

Tried all the local part stores and every single one did not have it and would take 3 to 4 days to come in. The price $60 to 80 dollars. They carried one that was in the 30 to 40 dollar range but when I asked to see a picture of it, it was the wrong one. The Volvo dealer wanted $80 something for it. I checked a junk yard and they had a 850 1997 turbo robbed of everything she had. Poor thing. No luck there. Finally I came accross TG Auto and they had it for 54 dollars and could have it to me at 1300 that same day. There on Yadkin road right out side Fort Bragg just in case any body in the same area needs to know. Thanks again. Now I just need to get this check engine light off!