New S80 T6 Owner W/Problems

99S80Guy · Post by **99S80Guy** » 17 Jan 2011, 02:06

First let me say - Great site with lots of help where Volvo fails.

Secondly , I purchased a 99' S80 for 800.00 not running because of a blown out side tank on the radiator. Picked one up from 1-800 Radiator for 85.00 and installed it , charged the battery up and it fired right up and ran like a champ and drove smooth as can be. About a week later problems started happening..

#1 - Clunking sounds are now coming from all over the car as if I am driving through potholes constantly even though i'm not.

#2 - All of my lights work yet I have a bulb position error on my display.

#3 - Speedometer stopped working after I took it up to 80mph.

#4 - Now the car has to be jumped everytime I want to start OR drive it. The battery is dead if I leave it sitting for more than 2 hours. If I D/C the battery and hook it back up , all is fine.

#5 - SRS Light came on the other day out of nowhere.

#6 - And lastly , Sometimes when driving for a while it seems to chug and sputter a bit at higher speeds like freeway/highway.

This is a 1999 S80 T6 with 95,000 miles.

I would appreciate any help on these matters.

99S80Guy · Post by **99S80Guy** » 17 Jan 2011, 02:07

Oh an another problem is that Heat only blows out of the passenger side of the vents and cold air out of the drive sides...very annoying for winter !

Post by **precopster** » 17 Jan 2011, 05:00

The charging system is the first stop in a diagnosis where a battery is going flat. When the engine is running, what is the exact voltage across it?

Post by **jimmy57** » 17 Jan 2011, 08:04

The charging/electrical problems can cause some of your other problems.
Most likely problem for the clunks is the upper spring seats, search on this site using "spring seat".

That car has networked electrical system. Low voltage will cause modules to go off, they go off at around 10-10.5 volts and the voltage can be lower in systems further from battery so they don't all go down at the same time.

SRS lamp, speedo, and rough running could all be the charging low voltage problem. Battery drain when key is off can be related to charging problems. Modules that should go off when key is off may stay on for longer periods when there are faults in network.
In addition to alternator voltage level and amperage output, the system should be checked for bad diodes. A simple AC voltage check (meter on AC instead of DC selection) is a good indicator of failed diodes. AC voltage should be less than 300 mV (0.3 VAC) when monitored at output stud at alternator.
The car likely has a 120 Amp alternator but Bosch alternators on these usually will go 15% over rated for a time so a 120 A alternator putting out 115 A is not acceptable for late model Volvos. Alt will do just under stamped rating for a brief AMP output test with a failed diode.

THe climate control irregularities may be voltage related but could be something in the HVAC case stopping the door or a failed servo.
The car should be scanned for codes, FULL CAR SCAN< NOT A GENERIC OBD-II SCANNER. But this is after you get charging system checked out / fixed and then a system reset is done by disconnecting (-) cable and touching the (+) post of battery with it for minimum 10 seconds to drain all current from module's storage (the battery is not shorted, you have the ground cable off, this only shorts and drains the modules). This will make all modules start clean. Then if codes store they are more valid than a bunch of codes about this module and that module and no communication, etc., etc. that will be there solely as a result of low voltage.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 17 Jan 2011, 11:19

jimmy57 will be able to confirm if this is really needed but keep in mind that you should wait for 5mins after turning the ignition off before disconnecting the battery. Also, when you reconnect it, the igntion key should be in the II position.

Post by **jimmy57** » 17 Jan 2011, 11:54

The procedure is to wait 5 minutes before disconnection. IF you are doing this for a module reset then it is not important. If the battery is being replaced and the car had no codes before then undoing battery before the wait time may put codes in or even cause the high or low speed network (or both) to go offline.
The key being in pos. II is so an airbag can't deploy in your face the first time the system powers up. The risk of this is nil unless the repairs you are doing that made you undo battery are repairs to the SRS system but safe nontheless. If key is on and you hook up the battery cable you can't be anywhere near a deploying airbag or seatbelt.

steveds · Post by **steveds** » 23 Jan 2011, 10:46

I have had my 1999 S80 for 3 years, it just started with, ABS failure, then Battery, then Oil pressure, and finally the Check engine. I have had the occasional Transmission failure or Brake failure every so often over the last 6 months. But last night I got a new message, I think it was "full guard". After an overnight disconnect, I now get SRS message, and no start condition.
I will try the position II restart, and advise. I cannot check the alternator output as the starter never hits, will not crank.
Any other advise is appreciated.

Post by **jimmy57** » 23 Jan 2011, 12:01

Are you saying you've had those messages but they went away on their own with no repairs?

steveds · Post by **steveds** » 23 Jan 2011, 13:16

Yes, but I still have a no start, and the "srs-airbag service urgent" in the message center.

Avoss80t6 · Post by **Avoss80t6** » 05 Jun 2011, 13:26

I also have the clunking sound coming from everywhere, any suggestions on what that could be ? its 2001 S80 T6 THANKS