I'm getting a clunky rattle coming from the front left of the car when going over bumps, even small little bumps like a crack in the road. Last time I had the car at the dealer they mentioned that the sway links were worn. Would this cause that symptom? I thought there was a fair amount of tension on the swaybar and end links when driving and wouldn't think it would rattle like that when worn. It almost sounds like a loose part but I can't see or find anything loose. What about the struts?
The car (2001 V70) has about 123k kms (around 77k miles). Are there any parts that tend to wear out around this time that I should go ahead and replace? I'm thinking about doing the engine and tranny mounts, the sway links and maybe some other things.
Rattle coming from front end
Hey Superjodz- I just noticed the same thing on mine a few weeks ago. I thought that it might be the anti-rattle springs on the brake calipers, or the exhaust hitting something under the car but it wasn't.
I was assuming the worst, but decided to check the EndLinks and I could wiggle it with my hand while all 4 wheels were on the ground. That should NOT happen!
Thankfully the parts aren't as expensive as a new suspension and I just got them delivered this week (From FCP I believe!).
Should be a quick fix to get these replaced!
I was assuming the worst, but decided to check the EndLinks and I could wiggle it with my hand while all 4 wheels were on the ground. That should NOT happen!
Thankfully the parts aren't as expensive as a new suspension and I just got them delivered this week (From FCP I believe!).
Should be a quick fix to get these replaced!
2002 Volvo S60 T5- K&N, Royal Purple fluids, OBX DP, Iridium Spark
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velorider
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I too had a similar sound, and after replacing the outer-tie rod and end link the sound went away. I'm fairly certain it was the outer-tie rod though, because I was able to rotate them up and down and produce a similar noise to the noise heard when driving. You can do this with the car parked. Lie on your back near the rear of the front tires and grab the outer-tie rod. Push up and down and see if you can produce a clanking noise. A good tie rod will not rotate up and down easily.
Great tip. And if you didn't have enough to do, I would replace the inner tie-rod as well. Mine went bad before the outer. And since you are under the car, you might as well change the sway bar endlinks just as preventative maint.... 
2002 Volvo S60 T5- K&N, Royal Purple fluids, OBX DP, Iridium Spark
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bobsnow100
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If you jack up your car,grab the tire in the 9 and 3 o 'clock position and see if you get play when shaking it back and forth.
Also (with the tire removed) you can see check the control arm bushings for looseness, tie rods for looseness, you can get a big screw driver or bar and see if there is play in the lower ball joint,
My guess though is the spring seat at the top of the strut, common with this year car. When they break you'll get very load clunking sounds when you go over bumps.
With the car tire back on and lowered to the ground (not jacked up) , You can take the top bolt off the top of the strut and visually see if the rubber is broken where the strut bolt comes through.
Also (with the tire removed) you can see check the control arm bushings for looseness, tie rods for looseness, you can get a big screw driver or bar and see if there is play in the lower ball joint,
My guess though is the spring seat at the top of the strut, common with this year car. When they break you'll get very load clunking sounds when you go over bumps.
With the car tire back on and lowered to the ground (not jacked up) , You can take the top bolt off the top of the strut and visually see if the rubber is broken where the strut bolt comes through.
Tie-rods.
had exactly the same symptoms on my car.
Have someone rock the car side to side from the opposite site of where you suspect trouble.
You grab a hold of the tie-rod from behind the wheel.
You will feel the clunk.
had exactly the same symptoms on my car.
Have someone rock the car side to side from the opposite site of where you suspect trouble.
You grab a hold of the tie-rod from behind the wheel.
You will feel the clunk.
2001 V70 T5 (127 K)
2004 XC70 (233 K)
2004 XC70 (233 K)
Hey guys. Thanks for all the tips. The car issues have been on the back burner for a while but i'm getting back to them now.
I've been pricing out parts and I think I might do a few things. Tie rod ends and sway links for sure, and I'll definitely check the spring seats and ball joints. The dealer has already told me that the control arm bushings are worn, but I don't have a press so I'd have to get them to do it.
Also, they've told me the upper engine mount is torn, so I'm going to order that too.
Thanks
JT
I've been pricing out parts and I think I might do a few things. Tie rod ends and sway links for sure, and I'll definitely check the spring seats and ball joints. The dealer has already told me that the control arm bushings are worn, but I don't have a press so I'd have to get them to do it.
Also, they've told me the upper engine mount is torn, so I'm going to order that too.
Thanks
JT
- BobbyC777
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I am trying to figure out if my front end rattle is from sway bar end links on my 2004 V70. With the car in the air should I be able to feel any slop from end links? It all felt pretty solid to me. Would doing it while wheels are on ground be a better test? With > 100K miles it might time and job doesn't look too bad (famous last words).
Thanks.
Bob
Thanks.
Bob
If your sway bar bushings are still good & the struts fully expanded with the car in the air, there should be stress on the end links & you'd have to push or pry really hard to notice any play, check when the car is standing on it's own wheels on level ground (right to left) so the sway bar is in it's normal position & not twisted, you can drive the front axle on ramps if you want more clearance to move & see better.BobbyC777 wrote:I am trying to figure out if my front end rattle is from sway bar end links on my 2004 V70. With the car in the air should I be able to feel any slop from end links? It all felt pretty solid to me. Would doing it while wheels are on ground be a better test? With > 100K miles it might time and job doesn't look too bad (famous last words).
Thanks.
Bob
Greetz, Ben
‘14 BMW i3
‘09 BMW 535XiT
‘09 BMW 535XiT
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