Car is a UK Spec 2005 2.0D Sport with 40k miles & Full Service History
Hi
Having a problem with starting my car. As in - it won't!
Put the key in and turn it, dash lights come on OK. From memory there used to be a fuel pump that would come on. This doesn't happen now. Nothing happens when trying to crank. Battery is fine. After a few attempts, dash computer showed 'Immobiliser - see manual' notice. AA think that is a red herring, as the steering lock comes off. More importantly, the car will start when 12v applied to starter/solenoid. It runs perfectly. But as soon as its switched off nothing (won't start). This is not an intermittent fault, as its only happened the once (no warning). The fuse seems OK for the starter.
Any help/tips or anyone with the same symptoms - it would be good to hear from you.
S40 2.0D Won't turn over
I had a similar problem on a 54 reg V50 - except the non-cranking was permanent. In my case it was the contact in the starter switch not making so relay R13 didn't get energised to activate the starter motor. Hotwiring across R13 get me going until I could get it to a dealer. I didn't get any immobiliser warnings - all the switch outputs go into the ECM, and the chip reader is in the starter switch too so there's lots of combinations that could cause a problem.
Fortunately a used car warranty paid most of the £360 dealer bill with mine. The switch itself is £132, then it's an hour to get to it and an hour to reassemble everything again.
I got the old switch back and opened it up (very easy) out of interest. The contacts are operated by plastic pegs which run in grooves and are operated by slots/cams in a plastic disc which turns with the key. I figure the peg had jammed in mine as it's perfectly ok after reassembly. If you ever came to fit a replacement switch, you might be able to swap the chip reader from your original which hopefully would make everything work ok. Otherwise, it needs to be done at the dealer's as the chip reader has to be programmed into the car.
Steve
Fortunately a used car warranty paid most of the £360 dealer bill with mine. The switch itself is £132, then it's an hour to get to it and an hour to reassemble everything again.
I got the old switch back and opened it up (very easy) out of interest. The contacts are operated by plastic pegs which run in grooves and are operated by slots/cams in a plastic disc which turns with the key. I figure the peg had jammed in mine as it's perfectly ok after reassembly. If you ever came to fit a replacement switch, you might be able to swap the chip reader from your original which hopefully would make everything work ok. Otherwise, it needs to be done at the dealer's as the chip reader has to be programmed into the car.
Steve
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alexfarrow
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 13 March 2011
- Year and Model: v50 2005
- Location: bristol
Hi
I've got exactly the same problem with my 2005 V50 right down to the 12v to the starter solenoid starting it no problem. What was causing your problem in the end? I've got this booked in tomorrow and anything to give the dealer a head start and avoid the usual expensive round-the-houses approach would be much appreciated.
Cheers
I've got exactly the same problem with my 2005 V50 right down to the 12v to the starter solenoid starting it no problem. What was causing your problem in the end? I've got this booked in tomorrow and anything to give the dealer a head start and avoid the usual expensive round-the-houses approach would be much appreciated.
Cheers
I'm currently having the same problem with my 2000 V40.
We noticed that the key did not turn quite as far as it used to. Almost, but not quite. I removed the electrical contacts from the back of the key assembly (just a philips..not a security bit) and used a blade screwdriver to turn the center slot normally turned by the key. The car started immediately.
Something mechanical in the key. I'm looking for info about an interlock that might have failed... something that would let the key turn past positions I and II and into III but not enough to start the car. It seems unlikely that the key and barrel would be the problem since it turns so freely otherwise.
We noticed that the key did not turn quite as far as it used to. Almost, but not quite. I removed the electrical contacts from the back of the key assembly (just a philips..not a security bit) and used a blade screwdriver to turn the center slot normally turned by the key. The car started immediately.
Something mechanical in the key. I'm looking for info about an interlock that might have failed... something that would let the key turn past positions I and II and into III but not enough to start the car. It seems unlikely that the key and barrel would be the problem since it turns so freely otherwise.
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