2002 S80 T6 Huge Issue Please Help

T_Bone · Post by **T_Bone** » 15 Mar 2011, 19:48

History: Volvo S80 T6 80,000 miles purchased almost a year ago at 73,000 miles.

Symptoms: Occasional shudder/sluggish acceleration particularly pushing beyond 2k rpm (even pedal pressure), tach goes just above 2k rpm when I give it a nice light even acceleration but then drops back to 2k and shudders. Overall sluggishness. Engine has an oscillating or "in waves" vibration even when I do push the pedal to the floor.

Known "visible" Issues: Upper engine mount bushing barely exists anymore, CV Joint boots are bad and the 3way joint looks gunky, Hissing sound and steam visible from passenger side of upper intake manifold between the coolant hose and the manifold edge from where the PCV nipple is, battery terminal negative is jerry rigged with a non standard screw and comes off with a light tug (was like that when I bought it). Still light steam coming out of dipstick when I remove the oil dipstick.

Things I've done: PCV Breather box replacement (kit from IPD), replaced all 6 plugs (Volvo brand), replaced all six coils (IPD HD), and I also redid the front brakes, rotors and caliper recondition. Rebalanced tires last week as well.

If there is any information you can share, I would REALLY appreciate it.

Respectfully,
T_Bone

Bigmaxy · Post by **Bigmaxy** » 15 Mar 2011, 20:49

Hopefully others will jump in.

What does it run like in neutral? Does it rev cleanly through the rev range?

If you keep it in gear will it get past the 2k stumbling block and run ok at higher revs?
Trying to figure out if it is engine or gearbox related.

Don't like the sound of that hissing and visible steam. I don't have a T6 so am having trouble visualizing where that part is you talk about. Are you losing coolant?

Can't see battery causing the problem but I would get onto that if you can. The alternator should be supplying power while the car is running anyway

Good luck.

Colonialgirl · Post by **Colonialgirl** » 15 Mar 2011, 23:12

Sounds like this auto was used and abused and put away wet; Hopefully, you didn't pay very much for it. Do a compression check on all your cylinders, and a pressure check on the radiator. The problem "MAY" be as simple as a bad thermostat letting the radiator over heat or it could be a bad head gasket. Since the upper engine bushing is gone, you might be well advised to replace ALL the engine mounts.
Rereading your post, I would almost BET money on a bad head gasket.
Of course do replace CV joints if they feel loose.
The battery of course should be replaced and probably the battery cable as well.
Good Luck.

T_Bone · Post by **T_Bone** » 16 Mar 2011, 00:46

The car idles great. If I push past the 2k mark I have two options.. pedal to the floor and then smoother but noticeable vibration or even pressure after a good tap and it will rumble like hell.
Don't know how to do a compression test..
Not sure about the radiator head gasket bit. The steam is coming from the crankcase vent box hoses area next to the throttle monitor. I noticed as well that the hose coming off the ETM has some residue on it.
I paid 8k for it at 70k miles because I'm a young soldier trying to start a family and couldn't afford the payments on newer vehicles. Thought the Volvo would be a great car for at least another 100k....
I'm replacing the upper and lower main engine mounts this weekend.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 16 Mar 2011, 06:36

Oh boy looks like you are in for some fun. Is your check engine light on? If so, have the codes pulled at an autozone or suchlike and post them.

When did all this start happening in relation to the PCV service? It sounds you have a a vacuum\boost leak somewhere, maybe multiple places. Is it consuming coolant? The steam you talk about, is it coming from the banjo bolt underneath the manifold at the front of the engine or somewhere else. As for the dipstick steam a lot will say that this means the PCV system is not working correctly, however im not sure if thats really a defacto test.

As Colonialgirl mentioned you will want to make sure that the battery connections are good. The S80 relies on a lot of computer and electronic wizardry, it doesnt take much to make things go pear shaped.

CV joints\boots at 80K is worrying. If the joints are OK and are not grinding, popping or clicking yet, clean them out, repack them with grease and put new boot on them. I think the kit is <$15 including grease per joint.

T_Bone · Post by **T_Bone** » 16 Mar 2011, 13:11

No coolant loss at all.
CV joints go bad fast in Arizona from dry rot on the boots.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 16 Mar 2011, 13:17

Re-check the whole PCV job & check all vacuum\boost pipes. Any engine codes?

T_Bone · Post by **T_Bone** » 19 Mar 2011, 23:25

Ok. No codes. CV joints and mounts are causing the shakes. The hissing... well Fml guys because its the pcv system. From the banjo bolt on the UIM back there is an elbow (not the nipple but closer to the breather box) it has a plastic piece coming out. It's snapped off somehow and Idk what to do.. can one leak in the pcv system cause serious problems? Or should I just focus on the CV joints?

T_Bone · Post by **T_Bone** » 20 Mar 2011, 13:15

Also, any idea what it would cost to get that piece replaced by a mechanic? The whole breather box doesn't need to be replaced. Just that piece. THey could probably even splice it. I'm just tired of tearing it apart every weekend to fix something new..