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Correct stop-leak for steering fluid?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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kcodyjr
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Correct stop-leak for steering fluid?

Post by kcodyjr »

Like many others, my 96 850 is seeping just a little fluid from the steering rack.

This is the system using Dex3 ATF for steering fluid. I had Lucas PS stop-leak in it before the overhaul and I'm pretty sure that was why it felt like there were chunks in the fluid. Very similar symptoms to a binding steering knuckle.

What's the right stop-leak to put in the steering system on these models?
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JRL
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Post by JRL »

NONE
You need to replace the rack.

I can't believe you would put stop leak in there; pretty soon, if not now, it will become worse and perhaps inoperable!
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Post by Ozark Lee »

I kinda agree with Jim and I kinda disagree. Our cars don't use "Power Steering Fluid" for the power steering, they use ATF. Mixing ATF and "Power Steering Fluid" is a bad thing. I did it once on my wifes old Jeep and the system fluid turned into a gelatinous goo. To this extent Jim is absolutely correct, you cannot mix the two products.

While I never put much stock in "miracle in a can" products I did have very good luck with Valvoline MaxLife Automatic Transmission Stop Leak. When I bought the Platinum the rack had a bad leak and it took about 1/2 quart /week. I sucked all of the old stuff out of the tank and added the ATF stop leak. From there I ran the steering wheel back and forth and repeated the process several times to completely flush the system.

After a couple of days with the stop leak, my rack has not leaked a drop since and it has been nearly 3 years and around 60 k miles.

It may or may not fix your problem but it is worth a shot. Racks are expensive and they are a PITA to replace.

At a minimum you need to get the mixed fluids flushed out.

...Lee
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kcodyjr
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Post by kcodyjr »

Already took care of the mixed fluids. The car probably did 10 miles on the unholy mix, then sat still for most of a year.

At the moment, it's pure clean fresh Dex3, and feels pretty much perfect from behind the wheel.

I'll try that Valvoline product. I would like to put off the PITA replacement as long as possible.


EDIT: How do you think I learned these use ATF in the steering system? The hard way, of course.
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VolvoTurbo850
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Post by VolvoTurbo850 »

ATF stop leak is also available.

If this is a daily driver and your going to drive it into the ground then... use the stop- leak.

If it is a keeper.. but funds are low.. use stop- leak

If it is a keeper I would change the rack and hoses and never use stop-leak, unless i was going to change the rack and hoses anyway!

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JRL
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Post by JRL »

The problem with any stop leak product is that it's designed to plug up leaks which means it will turn into something hard!
If you're extremely lucky it will find it's way to the leak and nothing else, however most of the time it forms "balls"in whatever system it goes into and eventually makes everything worse.

For instance, Bar's STOP LEAK for radiators works fine for the short end, but after a while it forms into balls which clog the water jackets in your engine and after a while... your motor is junk!
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Post by Alecw81 »

What's the proper way to flush your "Power Steering System"?

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Post by kcodyjr »

There seem to be two accepted techniques:

1) Suck the reservoir dry with a turkey baster, refill, start the engine, work the steering back and forth until it looks nasty again, repeat until it doesn't get nasty anymore.

2) Lift up both front wheels. Suck the reservoir dry with a turkey baster, remove the return hose, lay it into an empty gallon milk jug. Plug where the return hose should go with something. Fill the reservoir halfway with new fluid, then have someone work the steering wheel back and forth engine off while you keep replenishing the reservoir. Continue until the effluent from the hose looks like the new stuff. Suck the reservoir dry one last time, remove the plug, reassemble the hose, refill the reservoir.
Last edited by kcodyjr on 25 Apr 2011, 00:16, edited 1 time in total.
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linuxsuperuser
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Post by linuxsuperuser »

Had this exact same problem on my 98 S70, the fluid was seeping from the rack seals.

Was not ready to pay major bucks for a new one.
At the local autoparts store I asked about about stop-leak products, an Old Timer told me to use this: ATP RE-Seal (AT205) He said that some of the other bands that use petroleum distillates will soften seals to the point where a hydraulic system can no longer be operated under pressure.

And Look they like it on bobistheoilguy.com too
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=1785310

In my Volvo before using it, I flushed the PS ATF using the 'turkey baster' method with a high quality synthetic ATF, like royalpurple, if the rack pump was loud like mine on cold mornings.
Add about half of the recommend dosage, think it was 1/3 bottle for closed systems so I used 1/4-1/5 - If it keeps leaking add just a little more, the less the better.

I don't remember exactly how many years ago that was but I know it was early High School because did not know much about cars and now I'm finishing up College with the same steering rack! Money Saved.

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